front pass. neg camber /OO[][]OO|

[chriskb3]

Ive been trying to figure out this problem for some time now. I searched a bit and the similar problems i found were because something was bent. The problem is the negative camber on the front passenger wheel. I have H&R cup kit with correcting camber plates(not adjustable, from BMP?) The control arms are new, and i just replaced the strut itself. the car has not been in an accident. It seems that this occured when i installed the cup kit. the only questionable parts are the controll arm bushings, although they look ok, they are still pretty old. Any thoughts on whats causing this? think an alignment will fix the problem?

Thanks, Chris

[Jordan]

You lowered your car but did not realign it?

You need to align the car before you even start worrying about what is wrong.

A proper alignment will tell you EXACTLY what is wrong, worn, or bent.

That said your front camber should be between -1.2 and -1.8 with the cupkit.

[chriskb3]

I just got an alignment. the front driver camber is now at -.3 and pass. is at -.8. obviously they should be the same or atleast a little closer to eachother, but is this still too far off? what could be causing this. toe is now at .07" and .09".

[Old'n'Slow]

Well, that's only a half a degree. My rear camber's out about that much, but I can't tell from behind the wheel...

A slightly bent spindle is possible but unlikely. I'd put my $$ on the control arm bushings. If you've not yet installed M3 bushings, now's a good time. The old non-M bushings allow for quite a bit of wheel movement, which, if one is more collapsed than the other or torn, could lead to the slight camber difference. How's the caster look? BTW, the toe is the only adjustment on these cars unless you get fancy with camber plates

Let us know what you find out...

[chriskb3]

the caster is at 6.7 degrees on frivers side and 7 degrees on passenger.
hmm, yeah ive been waiting for a time to do bushings. anyways, thanks for the help.

[Digitalwave]

Well, that's only a half a degree. My rear camber's out about that much, but I can't tell from behind the wheel...

A slightly bent spindle is possible but unlikely. I'd put my $$ on the control arm bushings. If you've not yet installed M3 bushings, now's a good time. The old non-M bushings allow for quite a bit of wheel movement, which, if one is more collapsed than the other or torn, could lead to the slight camber difference. How's the caster look? BTW, the toe is the only adjustment on these cars unless you get fancy with camber plates

Let us know what you find out...

CAB's affect castor, not camber.

[Old'n'Slow]

CAB's affect castor, not camber.

To clarify where I was coming from with that, since the control arms pivot from two locations, the control arm bushing and the inner ball joint; excessive wear at the CAB might cause slight inward (forward or backward would both be movement to the inside since an arc is involved) movement of the wheel/tire assembly. That's why I also asked about his caster numbers. If the CABs were really wasted, the caster would be out as well. 7 degrees seems like a lot, but I don't have my Bentley here at work with me.

I did the M3 CABs and enjoy the little bit of extra caster. That coupled with the euro manual rack makes for a responsive and lively steering feel. Might give the THR CABs a try soon.

BTW, I know it's picky, but the word is caster. I'm a spelling nerd...can't help it!