iX suspension and bushing checklist

[chivas]

ok... going to get it done soon. probably this weekend or sometime next week. ordering parts and want to have a checklist of everything (as well as alternatives to certain parts) so the car will drive like the day it left the factory.

diff bushing (kinda need it.. it's ok shape but wth...)
trans bushing (one's on it's way out)
cab (lollipops eh?)
Control arm itself: just do the whole arm with the ball joints or just replace the ball joints? any special tool needed?
subframe (yeah, it's SHOT)
rear strut mount
front strut mount (?)... i may want to hold off this until i get HD's.
ehh.... what else? i'm not very good at this. newb to the e30 stuffs.

thanks!

[FredK]

Dan. I know in your advancing age, you can't see certain features of forumz. Like the Search button. :finger: jkjkjk

You might want to change trailing arm bushings. What a pain in the ass that is, even with a hydraulic press (if you decide to go with stock rubber pieces. Urethane = easy).

If you drop the subframe to change the bushings, you should change the rear inner brake lines. They are EXTREMELY difficult to access at any other time. Inspect the rear brake hardlines at the same time. They might be rusty and ready to burst open. That would be bad.

Also, tie rods, lockplates, inspect rack boots for tears, rack clamps. The tie rods are iX specific (read: $$$, like M1 oil filter $$$).

You'll probably need a buttload of fasteners (stealer-only kinda thing):

4 driveshaft locknuts
2 inner CA locknuts
2 outer CA locknuts
2 tie rod locknuts
2 subframe M14 nuts
4 strut mount locknuts

The control arms and tie rods may come with locknuts, but I've received them without fasteners more than once...

I believe you need a press to install the ball joints. I think out of all the places I've seen, fcpgroton.com has good prices on the iX control arms and tie rods. But, shop around, I guess.

[nando]

I don't know of anywhere to get ix inner ball joints separately - but then again, they're pretty beefy and I haven't seen one wear out yet. the outters you can replace separately and they tend to fail sooner. you might be able to get away with just the outters, but if you've gone through the hell of removing the control arms you may as well do the whole thing.

[chivas]

Dan. I know in your advancing age, you can't see certain features of forumz. Like the Search button. :finger: jkjkjk

You might want to change trailing arm bushings. What a pain in the ass that is, even with a hydraulic press (if you decide to go with stock rubber pieces. Urethane = easy).

If you drop the subframe to change the bushings, you should change the rear inner brake lines. They are EXTREMELY difficult to access at any other time. Inspect the rear brake hardlines at the same time. They might be rusty and ready to burst open. That would be bad.

Also, tie rods, lockplates, inspect rack boots for tears, rack clamps. The tie rods are iX specific (read: $$$, like M1 oil filter $$$).

You'll probably need a buttload of fasteners (stealer-only kinda thing):

4 driveshaft locknuts
2 inner CA locknuts
2 outer CA locknuts
2 tie rod locknuts
2 subframe M14 nuts
4 strut mount locknuts

The control arms and tie rods may come with locknuts, but I've received them without fasteners more than once...

I believe you need a press to install the ball joints. I think out of all the places I've seen, fcpgroton.com has good prices on the iX control arms and tie rods. But, shop around, I guess.

with my ever aging body and loss of hair, the iX is going to help rejuvinate my sprit and soul.
as for the tie rods and M1 oil filter, shit, don't you know... we're all eballers!!!!! kekeke!!! -.-