What tools/parts do I need when installing Koni Yellows/H&R Race?

[tk-421]

So, after finally getting a place with a garage, I'm finally getting to refreshing my suspension and brakes but, since this is my only car, I need to get this done in a weekend so I can drive it to work. I've never done anything like this before and I want to make sure I have all the tools I need to get it done, meaning I want to avoid having to make trips to the store/dealer or waiting for parts to come in after I've started. I'll be spraying everything I'll be taking off in PB Blast 2x/day for a week leading up to it to be safe

Here's the parts list:
- Koni yellows (on sale now at Bimmerworld for $480, FYI) and ATF to put in cylinder with them
- H&R Race springs
- Lemforder tie rods, sway bar links, control arms
- Sachs strut mounts
- Treehouse FCABs
- Rear shock mount reinforcements
- E90 drop hats
- Brembo blank rotors, Pagid pads, anti-squeal for pads, speed bleeder, IE stainless lines, brake fluid

Tools:
- Work bench with vise
- Harbor Freight super professional grade 301-piece tool kit https://www.harborfreight.com/Mechan...-Pc-63464.html
- Borrowing my friend's Milwuakee cordless impact
- Channel locks
- manual spring compressors
- torch
- PB blast and tons of brake parts cleaner

Things I've seen conflicting information on:
- Do I need new bump stops?
- Do I need to add ATF into the shock cylinder?
- Do I need shock dust boots?


Many thanks, y'all

[roguetoaster]

Some sort of ball joint separator would be good, failing that, a BFH will work. Since you don't have a piston compressor for the caliper you can lever the piston back to home with a screwdriver or similar before removing any brake components. Impact sockets for the impact are a good idea. A pipe wrench, or a big pair of locking pliers can be handy for the strut gland nuts, but channel locks can get it done. A way to hang your calipers out of place is good, but you can do that with most anything. A way to remove the old control arm bushings from the lollipops is good, and can be as simple as a hammer with a chisel to collapse them, but some press tools are better. You may need a clamping system to install the control arms ends in the LCABs, for me, a piece of all thread bent in to a V shape and a piece of channel stock with with slots + nuts & washers, gets the job done pretty well. Locking pliers can be a great help reinstalling the ARB bushing brackets. Flare wrenches for the brake lines are a good idea. Clearly, a jack and jack stands are mandatory.

New bump stops, yes. Some sort of oil in the strut tube is recommended. Dust boots are good to have, but stock type ones tend to not work well, and a bellows style set would be better if you can find some the right size. If overhauling the brakes consider new guide pins/bushings.

Don't forget to spray the brake bleed nipples.

[Vincenze]

You won't be able to finish most of the steps in a weekend.

Some How-Tos: https://classicbimmerbits.com/e30-how-to/

You will need
a ball joint separator https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...tor-99849.html
a tie rod separator to separate the control arms from the front axle support https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...tor-63519.html
flare nut wrenches to unscrew the brake lines https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-pc-68866.html
that set is missing a M11 wrench. But it has the M22 wrench which is needed to unscrew the control arm nuts. Some people say you can use an oxygen sensor wrench.

You may rent from Autozone
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-pc-63728.html
and buy a hardened 12.9 long M14 bolt and a hardened coupling nut to push the bushings into the lollipops.
I found that for some reason you can push them easily 3/4 of the length using a vise, etc. Then, you need tremendous strength to move them the last 5 mm and center them in the lollipops.
It seems that you use a different type of lollipops.

You need this pin spanner wrench to unscrew the gland nuts that hold the strut inserts.

https://www.mcmaster.com/5480A14

You should buy rubber repair sets for the brake calipers. They are different for the front brakes: ATE or Girling.
You will need a tire compressor to push the calipers out.
You will need that plastic cone accessory to seal the contact.

[roguetoaster]

OP you can totally finish this in a weekend, even on your first go, but for the sake of simplicity I'd skip a caliper reseal. You can come back to it, but will need to bleed the system again.

Perhaps assess the condition of caliper outer seals. If they appear okay just do guides and come back to the caliper rebuild/line replacement another time.

Remember, get as much done Saturday as you can so you can hunt down anything you need before shops close Sun.

Should add a drill and a few metal bits to the tool list as it's always likely that you'll have to drill out a rotor set screw. Another option is to pound a torx bit in if/when the hex strips out.

[Vincenze]

Remember, get as much done Saturday as you can so you can hunt down anything you need before shops close Sun.

Or watch Youtube videos on how to ride a bicycle.
Then calipers could be sent to a zinc plating place.

[roguetoaster]

Or watch Youtube videos on how to ride a bicycle.
Then calipers could be sent to a zinc plating place.

If you haven't left something until too late on Sunday to get the tool or part from wherever, you haven't spent enough time wrenching. It's incredibly simple to forget, and it's worthy of inclusion.

[Vincenze]

If you haven't left something until too late on Sunday to get the tool or part from wherever, you haven't spent enough time wrenching. It's incredibly simple to forget, and it's worthy of inclusion.

That's why I think the whole project will take a month or more, even working in the evenings.

[roguetoaster]

That's why I think the whole project will take a month or more, even working in the evenings.

Cool.

OP, you can do it.

[tk-421]

Thanks for the insight everyone, I really do appreciate it!

I know it seems redundant but for the sake of time, I'll do the brakes first then tackle the suspension on another weekend to be safe and keep spraying PB Blast on the suspension components. Luckily the treehouse FCABs are going onto new control arms and don't require a press for installation so that'll save me from that headache.

[mike.bmw]

Cool.

OP, you can do it.

I'm with roguetoaster on this one. You can knock this out in a day. I'm not an E30 genius and I've done full suspension replacement (springs, shocks, bushings, mounts, etc) in about 3 hours. Rotors and pads don't add much additional time as the calipers are already coming off. As suggested, you may want to save the caliper rebuild and line replacement for the following day or another weekend, but you could also get this done in the same weekend. Good luck!

[tk-421]

I'm with roguetoaster on this one. You can knock this out in a day. I'm not an E30 genius and I've done full suspension replacement (springs, shocks, bushings, mounts, etc) in about 3 hours. Rotors and pads don't add much additional time as the calipers are already coming off. As suggested, you may want to save the caliper rebuild and line replacement for the following day or another weekend, but you could also get this done in the same weekend. Good luck!

Thank you, that's reassuring!

I'll start right after work on Friday and then bright and early on Saturday to get as much time in as possible. If things get done pretty quickly I'll rebuild the calipers before reinstalling them (I'll check which calipers I have and buy the parts/kit).

[NYCDelphin]

so tk-421, how did it go.. i am about 3 weeks in and still finding that I need to order this and that... its not my daily tho.. so I am taking my time.
Hope all went well :)