Are rubber rear subframe bushings not a good choice?

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  • digger
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2005
    • 6126

    #16
    Originally posted by moatilliatta
    One thing I found the group N stuff has been setting for a while it may deteriorate just a quick as IE goop. I don't have the group N part number.

    These bushings cant be that hard to have remade in solid rubber by now...
    i thought about drill a small hole in the arm and adding some casting rubber Shore A 80 to make them solid as the OE ones neck down in various places
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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    • Edrift
      Noobie
      • Jun 2026
      • 6

      #17
      Originally posted by dadsbmw
      Went against my better judgement recently and brought my car into a "reputable" shop to get a misfire diagnosed. Despite not being asked to, the tech felt it necessary to do an underbody inspection and specifically called out: "stock rear sub-frame bushings (replaced but still OEM and not recommended)." I definitely brushed this off as nonsense, but am now curious if there's any actual truth to this?

      Is there anything wrong with running stock (Lemforder) rear subframe bushings? Should I be using something stiffer? Poly? Delrin? Aluminum?

      I mainly ask because as I do research for my Z4, which basically has an E46 rear subframe, the consensus is to go with much stiffer bushings at the connection of subframe to body, to reduce stress at that joint and put all the stress on the mounts from subframe to trailing arms/diff.
      Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. Fresh OEM Lemforder subframe bushings are perfectly fine for most street-driven BMWs. If the bushings are new and the car isn't a dedicated race car, I'd happily run OEM rubber and move on. I'd be more concerned about the misfire diagnosis than the subframe bushings

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