Is my rear camber/toe gonna be a problem?

[91 318is]

So I lowered my car a few months back on GC coil over conversion and all that good stuff. Took it to an alignment shop to get everything straight on the front, wasn't really worried about the back. The measurements were -3.2* on the right and -2.8* on the left of camber, 0.04* of toe on the left, 0.23* of toe on the right. At first, i wasn't really worried about, but the more and more I look at the rear, I know it's going to chew through tires, which I don't really want. It's not my DD, so it doesn't get ran everyday, but I drive it a lot, so I guess you could call it my DD.

Anywho, I'd like to know how I should go about correcting the the rear alignment? Should I correct both the toe and camber? Or just the camber? If I do a weld on kit, it will definitely be IE. I also noticed on bimmerworld that they have M3 camber correcting RTAB's, would those do the trick? I want to change the RTAB's anyway, but if I drop the rear subframe for the IE kit, I'm changing every bushing on it.

Input?

Thanks

[Gooch]

I'm also interested in this. I'll be finished with my five lug swap soon and am really considering doing the weld on camber adjustment kit because I don't want to have to drop the subframe again anytime soon.

I've also heard the "raise the subframe 12mm" to help correct the geometry but nothing more than that. How is this achieved? Has anyone done it?

Not trying to threadjack, just also looking for more info.

[jlevie]

You need to correct both. And more importantly you need to fix what is causing the asymmetric results. It may be just the RTAB's, but the subframe bushings or a bent trailing arm are possible players. The wel-in IE kit is the superior solution.

[91 318is]

If I drop the subframe for the IE kit, I'm replacing all the bushings.

Thanks

[AlarmedBread]

As already said you either have some worn bushings or bent parts. Check the left side carefully as it should have more toe since it has more camber.