Confined area after rear eccentrics weld

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  • xLibelle
    R3VLimited
    • Aug 2004
    • 2673

    #1

    Confined area after rear eccentrics weld

    What are your setups to help me understand what direction I need to go with this issue.
    What you see here is AKG subframe mounts and custom eccentric plates welded in.
    (i wedged the nut in to show how little room there is, even for a wrench)





    I have a feeling that I need to order OEM subframe mounts to make this easier on myself... but how is anyone else dealing with this, mind you ireland's bushings have an even larger urethane outer diameter, making it that much more difficult to address subframes with welded on eccentrics.
  • erik325i
    No R3VLimiter
    • Jan 2005
    • 3567

    #2
    When using most urethane subframe mounts, you need to cut off a section of the top of the mount to provide clearance for that nut/wrench. It's a tight fit

    Erik

    Comment

    • xLibelle
      R3VLimited
      • Aug 2004
      • 2673

      #3
      ok, that did cross my mind and was about to test a blade in the material, but thought i'd ask you guys first.
      But then what about wrench clearance. Are you using shaved open end wrenches or maybe some special dilly?

      Also, are you guys installing the bolt from the bushing end and THEN installing the subframe or the OEM method with bolt pointed outward?

      Comment

      • erik325i
        No R3VLimiter
        • Jan 2005
        • 3567

        #4
        I've always just used a shaved down open wrench. I have bolts set up the OEM way, but I am considering mounting them the other way for better access to the nut.

        Erik

        Comment

        • xLibelle
          R3VLimited
          • Aug 2004
          • 2673

          #5
          lets list some pros and cons to both confiurations:

          bolts in OEM inside-outward config
          pros
          -install/removal of TA w/o having to remove SF !!!
          -easy adjustment of toe setting
          -its OEM ?
          cons
          -hard to tighten down bolt
          -need for removing SF mount material

          bolts in outside inward config
          pros
          -ease of tightening bolt down
          cons
          -obviously the SF removed to install/remove TA's
          -more difficult to adjust toe setting

          ...anyone else?

          What is some more input on this topic? I'm still at a point where I could go either way.

          Comment

          • Aptyp
            R3V OG
            • Feb 2008
            • 6584

            #6
            you're right about putting nut on the outside. On mine, I cut that corner of the mount off. I've always done that off the car, though.

            Comment

            • xLibelle
              R3VLimited
              • Aug 2004
              • 2673

              #7
              Originally posted by Aptyp
              you're right about putting nut on the outside. On mine, I cut that corner of the mount off. I've always done that off the car, though.
              right in what way about the nut on the outside?
              and youve done what off the car, cut the material?

              I have a feeling the subframe is coming back down one reason or another

              Comment

              • slow e30
                Grease Monkey
                • Jul 2009
                • 398

                #8
                why not drop the rear sub frame, install what your trying to, then reinstall subframe?
                sigpic

                Comment

                • Teaguer
                  R3V OG
                  • Sep 2004
                  • 6167

                  #9
                  Originally posted by slow e30
                  why not drop the rear sub frame, install what your trying to, then reinstall subframe?
                  "Brilliant" !!
                  Not so much. :roll:

                  E30 M3 / E30 325is / E34 525iT / E34 535i

                  Comment

                  • Aptyp
                    R3V OG
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 6584

                    #10
                    Originally posted by xLibelle
                    right in what way about the nut on the outside?
                    and youve done what off the car, cut the material?

                    I have a feeling the subframe is coming back down one reason or another
                    You're right about the way you're trying to install it, because this way you can remove trailing arms without removing subframe and mounts. Bolts should always slide from the inside.

                    About the mount: the way the mount sits. I take a hand saw and cut edge of the urethane that's in the way of the bolt. I cut it off flush with subframe tube, that gives enough room to install the nut, and leaves a good amount of material to keep mount solid in place.

                    Comment

                    • AlarmedBread
                      E30 Mastermind
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 1510

                      #11
                      Shave mount, use open end of wrench.

                      Comment

                      • xLibelle
                        R3VLimited
                        • Aug 2004
                        • 2673

                        #12
                        ok. so has this topic been discussed on r3v before? I poked around a bit looking nothing turning up.

                        so if i'm shaving down the sides of an open end, have you guys had any issues getting enough torque and access to the nut? Because I kinda am considering installing the bolt from outside in... I HATE the idea but it seems it could work better in the end with adjustments and tightening of that nut. I mean think how often it is that we have to remove a trailing arm.

                        Comment

                        • xLibelle
                          R3VLimited
                          • Aug 2004
                          • 2673

                          #13
                          Back from work and wanted to update after having removed the SF.

                          No big need for explination other than nut to the bushing has toe adjusted full in and opposite for the bolt head to bushing. Material would definetly have to be removed if installed via the method on the left.

                          Comment

                          • CCR Engineering
                            Member
                            • Jan 2009
                            • 41

                            #14
                            I always just cut a bit off the corner of the urethane mount. It won't affect anything.

                            Comment

                            • xLibelle
                              R3VLimited
                              • Aug 2004
                              • 2673

                              #15
                              yeah, at this point, i'm not concerned about cutting the bushing.

                              more interested in the wrench used to tighten down that nut. there is limited vertical space which would require the wrench to be shaved. seems it might be an issue of being slightly more difficult to have the nut there, than the toe adjustment.
                              Thinking the scenerio out over and over, its looking like it would be smarter to install the bolt from outside-inward.

                              Comment

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