track/ street brake setup

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • trent

    #16
    Re: track/ street brake setup

    Originally posted by trent
    Originally posted by Jason89i
    Are you sure?? Where did you get them. Ive run Hawk for a long time, tried alot of the compounds, but Hawk does not make ANY rear application for the e30 318-325 (4-lug). Bimmerworld, Tirerack (call in only), TCkline, Livermore......no-one i know, but im definately up to signing on with a new vendor. well, actually it really doesnt matter as im headed into e36 f/r brakes later this month.
    Yes, bought them from Pro Parts / Tri-point engineering a few years back.

    Part # HB227E.630
    Wait yea, these are for E30 M3. :( Wrong car ;)

    Comment

    • M20E30M3
      Member
      • Jun 2004
      • 56

      #17
      For occasional mild track events, I would say you don't need cooling. If you can afford it, by all means get it.

      I agree with the stock rotor. You don't need slotted as they don't really help with braking ability, their biggest benefit is when it's wet, they help scrape the moisture off the top of the pad.

      Here is my recommended kit for brakes, street or occasional track.

      E30 325i calipers are fine, I would rebuild them.
      Cryo-Treated stock rotors - these will be less likely to crack/warp. These are most every E30 racecar on the tracks are running.
      Stop-Tech SS lines. YES there is a different with lines. Theirs are the highest quality lines I've seen. You want to buy best one because you will need to replace them less often. You're SUPPOSED to replace SS lines every 1-2 years because debris makes it into the mesh weave and can create a leak over time.
      Motul 600 fluid - higher boiling point than Ate.
      Axxis Ultimates - So far seem to be the best blend of street and track.
      Oh yeah, GOOD TIRES.
      Cooling if you can afford it or if you're insane with the braking, get it even if you can't afford it.

      Unless you have some SERIOUS meats and they're R compound, there is very little need to move to 15 inch rotor,' 12 piston caliper, ceramic cross drilled loating rotor shiznit. Stock E30 brake systems can overcome the grip of almost any tire with reason. The trick is a good pad which will dissapate the heat and work under high temps. The rest is keeping them cool. There is plenty of nutsack in a stock E30 system though so don't worry about that.

      Later on, if you're reaching the limits of those pads, you should step up to a CarboTech Panther. They are the shit. I've heard they're still decent around town but I wouldn't test it. I've raced E30's with those pads and they're hardcore.
      Ian

      Comment

      • kylebes1
        R3VLimited
        • May 2004
        • 2804

        #18
        Thanks for all the help. Regualr rotors it is, how do you know if they are temperature whatevered?

        I think I will go with Mintex pads for now, becuase it will be April before I race any.

        But I am gonna get some calipers to rebuild and paint, and I may buy those tubular semitrailing arms.

        Comment

        • M20E30M3
          Member
          • Jun 2004
          • 56

          #19
          From most everybody I've known who've had mintex, they weren't impressed. You could always go factory. I think you'd be surprised how well they work.

          Cryo treating is something you need to have done. Almost nobody sells cryoed rotors. Usually costs $25 a rotor. If you can't find anywhere that can do it, it's not going to kill to not have it done.
          Ian

          Comment

          Working...