Front wheel bearing question

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  • vr2jetta
    E30 Addict
    • Sep 2008
    • 460

    #1

    Front wheel bearing question

    The front wheel bearing is bad in my '90 325i. I have done research but I still have 1 question. I have a 3 jaw puller to pull it off, but how does it go back on? I heard there is a tool to press it in? My crappy Chilton is not that specific. It says something about "tighten the nut to press the bearing in" but I have read about a special tool needed. I think I read that someone used a large socket to tap it in.

    I know that you have to replace the whole hub, but I dont quite get how it goes in.......I have never done one on this car, I am used to VW's 'lovely' bearings up front! I guess I am just concerned because I dont want to get caught without a car with my wifes job and me picking up the kids from school. I just want it fixed that day.

    And I am aware I need to replace the nut, torque the new one to 250 ft/lbs and get a new dust cap. Thanks guys.
  • Philo
    Ich esse kleine Kinder
    • Oct 2008
    • 3334

    #2
    OK here is the rundown on front wheel bearings.

    1. Autozone sells FAG hubs for $95. Those are the best bang for the buck. You want to replace both sides at the same time. You'll also need 2 locking nuts.

    2. Use a guide and follow steps until you get to the removal of wheel bearing hub. At this point, try your luck at pulling it off. The last 4 hubs i've replaced, 3 pulled right off. If that doesn't work, you can use the bearing puller.

    3. Clean off the old grease, make sure the spindle is not damaged, and apply some new grease to the spindle. CAREFULLY push the new hub STRAIGHT on to the spindle by hand. You should be able to push it all the way down. Some give a slight fight, and you can use the socket which was used to remove the locking nut, and lightly tap it on. Others are a bitch. For those I use the method of pushing the hub with the locking collar by threading it on the spindle.

    4. To remove and install locking nuts, you will need a socket with a thin enough side wall to fit in between the wheel center and locking nut. I used a standard size socket with a very large breaker bar. I'll check the size in the morning.
    Last edited by Philo; 09-29-2009, 08:30 PM.
    -tim
    Originally posted by Jordan
    I like the stance
    -Coining hip terms since 10/9/03

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    • vr2jetta
      E30 Addict
      • Sep 2008
      • 460

      #3
      Thank you! I have the socket, I believe its a 32mm. I took it all apart to diagnose the problem but got to the bearing to find the nut was SUPER tight. I thought I could just tighten it up a little and be good but after it didnt budge when I gave it a decent pull I pulled out the book. Chilton says it is non serviceable, non adjustable.......damnit.

      Comment

      • Philo
        Ich esse kleine Kinder
        • Oct 2008
        • 3334

        #4
        Yeah. It sucks that they cost a good amount, but you'll never have to do it again. Also, a heat torch will work wonders for getting the inner race off when stuck. On other vehicles thats all I use - no puller. Keep us posted on the project and let us know if you run in to troubles.
        -tim
        Originally posted by Jordan
        I like the stance
        -Coining hip terms since 10/9/03

        Comment

        • z31maniac
          I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
          • Dec 2007
          • 17566

          #5
          Buy the Craftsman socket. Fit perfectly. I've read others who have bought the cheapies have to grind down some material to fit.
          Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
          Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

          www.gutenparts.com
          One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

          Comment

          • Van Westervelt
            R3V OG
            • May 2006
            • 9365

            #6
            How I wish e30 m3 front bearings were the same price, lol. $300+ a side.
            sigpic

            Comment

            • tonytony
              Knee deep in poopie
              • Jan 2004
              • 3498

              #7
              mine went pretty well, i pulled it off by hand and then i only had to put a bit of effort to put the new one back in, torqued it up, smashed the bolt lip onto the spindle, put the dust cap on and called it a day

              Comment

              • vr2jetta
                E30 Addict
                • Sep 2008
                • 460

                #8
                Thanks guys. Im feeling more confident now. I do believe the socket I have is craftsman. I have a number of large sockets from doing driveaxles all these years so I am just lucky I had the 32 that fit so I dont have to buy it too.

                Comment

                • Paukert11
                  E30 Fanatic
                  • Nov 2008
                  • 1295

                  #9
                  wait you said 90$????? wtf i payed last time 130 for one. But the thing is how long do autozone last?

                  Comment

                  • Gooch
                    E30 Mastermind
                    • Dec 2006
                    • 1674

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Van Westervelt
                    How I wish e30 m3 front bearings were the same price, lol. $300+ a side.
                    All you have to do is get an e28 front hub and swap the ABS rings. Instant $$$ savings.

                    '91 318is - OBD-II S52 swapped - E30 M3 5-lug - 5x120 BBS RC090 (E39 Style 5) - TCK D/A coilovers 550/700 [SOLD]
                    '87 535i - Vacuum brake conversion [SOLD]
                    '93 525iT - 5-speed swap - 320k and counting
                    '09 328xi - 6-speed

                    Comment

                    • vr2jetta
                      E30 Addict
                      • Sep 2008
                      • 460

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Paukert11
                      wait you said 90$????? wtf i payed last time 130 for one. But the thing is how long do autozone last?
                      Ive heard the ones at auto zone have a lifetime warranty, I believe they are timkens? Maybe FAG? Not sure but I read that is the cheapest place to get them and the are pretty good quality.
                      I hear you though, I hate going to auto zone for any parts......be it for the BMW or the VW's!

                      Comment

                      • Philo
                        Ich esse kleine Kinder
                        • Oct 2008
                        • 3334

                        #12
                        Here is the dealio on autozone. Their supplier is Timkin. Timkin boxes FAG wheel bearing/hubs. FAG is stamped right on the bearing in the hub assembly. FAG is an OEM part used by BMW. FAG is one of the best bearing makers out there - Producing bearings for EVERYTHING. The $95 is a very competitive price on this part. Buy with confidence.
                        -tim
                        Originally posted by Jordan
                        I like the stance
                        -Coining hip terms since 10/9/03

                        Comment

                        • kishg
                          R3VLimited
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 2624

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Philo
                          Here is the dealio on autozone. Their supplier is Timkin. Timkin boxes FAG wheel bearing/hubs. FAG is stamped right on the bearing in the hub assembly. FAG is an OEM part used by BMW. FAG is one of the best bearing makers out there - Producing bearings for EVERYTHING. The $95 is a very competitive price on this part. Buy with confidence.
                          he's right.
                          '12 F30 328i Sport Line
                          '91 SpecE30 #523
                          '00 Ford F-350 Dually Tow Vehicle

                          BMWCCA #360858 NASA #
                          128290

                          Comment

                          • Jean
                            Moderator
                            • Aug 2006
                            • 18228

                            #14
                            +1 OR , take your hub out, buy the bearing and have a local machine shop remove the old bearing and install new. Should cost you price of the bearing and maybe $20 for labor.


                            OR this http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=141959
                            Last edited by Jean; 09-30-2009, 07:37 PM.
                            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                            Comment

                            • speedblind
                              Wrencher
                              • Nov 2006
                              • 252

                              #15
                              I had to use a 3-jaw puller to get my bearings out, but the new ones slid on without issue. If things are tight, you can get some fine-grit sandpaper to clean the spindle and it will slide on. Use grease too.

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