Jesus guys, i'm not that cheap, just wanted to know if i had to run to the dealer and add a part number to my list :roll:
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Rotor set screw
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Originally posted by nandoOriginally posted by BahnE30don't need it, lugs will hold it on there fine. i don't know of anyshops that actually put them back in when rotors are done, they're a pain in the ass to get out next time anyway.
jus bought em......$2.30 each....at dealer. Maybe if they were .50 the hack shops would buy em!I love sitting down and just driving!
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Man, I'm about to shoot something. PB Blaster'd the hell of out of it for days now, drilled out a slot so I could fit a flat blade in it, and used a ton of heat and the f'er is not even budging.
Any other thoughts?-Brandon
'86 325es S50
'12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
'03 540i M-Sport (sold)
'08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)
For sale:
S50 TMS chip for Schricks
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I had to drill mine out. Took a while. Grab a beer and enjoy the drilling!
AFAIK you dont have to put that screw back in. Its only sole perpose was to keep the rotors from falling off as the car was headed down the assembly line.
Its all personal preferance. I preferre to put mine back in. as yes I could do with out it, but I dont have wheel studs, so putting on my tires is a bitch allready.
Kyle1988 M3, 97 840, 99 XJ
DILLIGAF
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Originally posted by Beej '86 325esMan, I'm about to shoot something. PB Blaster'd the hell of out of it for days now, drilled out a slot so I could fit a flat blade in it, and used a ton of heat and the f'er is not even budging.
Any other thoughts?
If it doesn't work with the 5mm allen, use a t40 torx and hammer it into the allen bolt, then impact drive it out.'91 318is
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mine have been off for a while now, its not that bad to get the wheels on at all. somtimes the rotor rotates a bit but you can spin it back real easy. I had to drill them out the first time it did my brakes and i think i messed up the treads on one or two of the hubs anyway. That was my first thing i did on my car so i didnt know what the hell was gong on.
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I got the damn thing out. I tried getting a good pilot hole going down the whole screw so that I would be able to get the whole thing out and be able to put in another screw. That didn't work too well, I broke 4 bits and drained 2 batteries on the Dewalt. Finally, I said fuck it and drilled off the head so I could get the rotor off. The other side wasn't near as bad.
Now I can finally get my strut tubes out to send to ground control.
Thanks for the help guys. :)-Brandon
'86 325es S50
'12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
'03 540i M-Sport (sold)
'08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)
For sale:
S50 TMS chip for Schricks
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Just one word on how to remove...hammer and punch (ok, 3 words). Take center punch and hit sharply with hammer in center of hex...that should loosen the rust and associated crap so you can loosen with hex wrench. Never tighten more than finger tight and use copper neversieze compound...the next time you do brakes you will congratulate yoursely on how smart you were:) Chuck
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