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Bedding in HT10's last night...and uhh, somethin went wrong.

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    Bedding in HT10's last night...and uhh, somethin went wrong.

    I started by braking fairly hard from around 60-30 a few times, then went to about 3-4 75/70-30 braking hard (tires couldn't keep up). I'd done similar procedures before and it got them nice and hot and bed in. I just found a thread saying to not brake hard but rather to just warm them up instead (soft braking and dragging the brakes to begin with?)?

    Well, lets just say one caliper stuck and I was still moving on it. It was night time so not sure how red it is (if it was daylight), but my front left was hot like you would normally see when bedding in pads...whereas my front right was RED HOT - GLOWING. I freaked out.

    I went about 1-2mph for around 1 mile to keep them moving, but not fast enough to build heat because of locking up. Figured it was best to let it not stagnate and at least keep them moving. It was locked up bad - car would come to a hard stop after coasting.

    WELL - after that mile it was no longer dragging - car would roll fine and I could push it. It was definitely still hot, but not glowing by any means. I drove around for about 20 minutes and the heat on each wheel finally equalized.

    Cliffnotes:
    - Bed in pads (3 60-30's, 4 75-30's)
    - At about 3rd or 4th 75-30, seemed to start pulling to the right
    - Went to go turn around - BIG MISTAKE (stopped for a split second to put into reverse)
    - Started moving again, right was draggin BAD - squealing like crazy
    - Tried to hit brakes and break it loose - no go
    - Stopped quick, saw them red hot, freaked
    - Drove 2 mph for 1 mile, no longer dragging
    - Drove home

    End result? HT10's are f-ing amazing. Front right is more discolored than the left, but besides tons of dust - saw nothing wrong.

    My theories
    - I had air in one side, causing uneven braking - when one side got too hot it pretty much locked up because of heat? (possible?)
    - I think the fluid in the front right had to have boiled for sure
    - The boot on the front right is a tad bit pulled back for a 10 degree portion, for some reason this causes issues only when hot? I thought if a boot was bad, a caliper would either drag or not drag?


    Thoughts, questions, comments?? I know it was long, but meh. Are my brakes seriously ok??
    - Sean Hayes

    #2
    I'd get a caliper rebuild kit, and bleed the system, just for safety's sake.

    Comment


      #3
      never stop on hot pads. you'll warp the rotors too.
      AWD > RWD

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
        never stop on hot pads. you'll warp the rotors too.
        LOL Yes. I know. That's why i wasn't stopped for long (Less than 20 seconds). I also had to see what was wrong - better than driving too fast with a locked caliper.

        Farbin, no time. Driving Road America on Friday. Leaving for OFest tomorrow morning. Also rebuilt them about 5 years ago. I'll just buy re-manufactured ones now. (or upgrade)

        I have another set of fronts that we may switch to.

        The rotor wasn't warped, somehow.
        - Sean Hayes

        Comment


          #5
          My theories
          - I had air in one side, causing uneven braking - when one side got too hot it pretty much locked up because of heat? (possible?)
          - I think the fluid in the front right had to have boiled for sure
          - The boot on the front right is a tad bit pulled back for a 10 degree portion, for some reason this causes issues only when hot? I thought if a boot was bad, a caliper would either drag or not drag?
          None of the above. The cause of this will be a bad caliper (rebuild or replace), bad soft brake line, or if a front wheel, a sticking valve in the abs unit.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            None of the above. The cause of this will be a bad caliper (rebuild or replace), bad soft brake line, or if a front wheel, a sticking valve in the abs unit.
            I think you're right on the caliper. That's what I was thinking. (I don't remember if I mentioned it - but that corner had the boot kind of out - it was sticking out a bit, slightly exposing the seal) 2+2=bad caliper. I must not have gotten that seal in all the way when I rebuilt it 5 years ago! Amazing it lasted this long.

            We're gonna switch to my other set later tomorrow. Thanks! Here's to hoping my other calipers treat me well on Road America! :D
            - Sean Hayes

            Comment


              #7
              read the break-in procedure written on the box next time! :)

              If you can afford it, I'd put on a pair of rebuilt calipers and new soft lines. Be sure to grease the slides.

              Comment


                #8
                Must be a defect, ask the manufacturer for new parts, and dont let them ask you any questions about it

                Comment


                  #9
                  ^ lol.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Apologize for hijack ...
                    Originally posted by e304me View Post
                    Must be a defect, ask the manufacturer for new parts, and dont let them ask you any questions about it
                    Got Brakes??LOL
                    My CA legal M60 swap

                    The happening in our garage

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Farbin Kaiber View Post
                      I'd get a caliper rebuild kit, and bleed the system, just for safety's sake.
                      Yep. Best $60 you can spend.

                      Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
                      never stop on hot pads. you'll warp the rotors too.
                      Very true. Never use your ebrake at a track either.......especially on those pads. I made that mistake :-(

                      Originally posted by 2002maniac View Post
                      Be sure to grease the slides.

                      Great advise.
                      ** Lot's of M20 turbo parts for sale.**



                      Turn key track car.

                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=222066

                      Comment


                        #12
                        First session at RA and it started to barely drag (could feel it - went in a lap early). I swapped the caliper out and not another problem. I think what happened is it got something in there or something happened that when the piston expands, it begins to drag.

                        The slides are in great condition, so that definitely wasn't the problem.

                        And, I didn't see the break in procedure until after I bed them in. LOL They bed in just fine though - the pads were amazing at the track!
                        - Sean Hayes

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