Solo rear subframe install advice?

[lateracer]

I'm trying to reinstall my rear subframe by myself (with diff installed).

I was able to drop it myself with a floor jack, but installing it with new poly bushings isn't as easy as I thought it would be so far.

Any tips/techniques from people who have done it before?

[drumad]

Don't do it with the diff installed. I made that mistake my first go around and it was a huge pain getting it up there and trying to keep it balanced etc etc.

It's much easier to bolt in the diff after the subframe is on. Are the trailing arms still attached? I had those off as well.

Otherwise, good luck.

[KenC]

Yeah, take the diff off. You'll have a hell of a time balancing it. Putting the diff in with the floorjack afterward will be a cinch.

[Holland]

Truth, remove the diff but keep the arms on, makes life much easier.

[drumad]

Yerp, just way easier to lie on your back and lift the subframe towards the car and getting the bolts into the holes.

Once you have the nuts threaded on, you're golden.

[Holland]

Yerp, just way easier to lie on your back and lift the subframe towards the car and getting the bolts into the holes.

Once you have the nuts threaded on, you're golden.

That shit was a total pain with 9mm poly sub bushings. Had to juggle 5 things and thread the bolt.

[drumad]

That shit was a total pain with 9mm poly sub bushings. Had to juggle 5 things and thread the bolt.

Haha, I went with OEM so it was just that top monster washer. After I had both threaded, take one of the sides off and put in that bottom plate mess.

What is the stack up with the 9mm polys?

[Holland]

Haha, I went with OEM so it was just that top monster washer. After I had both threaded, take one of the sides off and put in that bottom plate mess.

What is the stack up with the 9mm polys?

The washer, two poly ends of the bushings, then thick aluminum washers, then the side plates and the nut. I actually had to tighten the nuts before I could fi the sideplates back in.

[lateracer]

Damn, I was hoping it would all fit in there nice and complete with the diff. Yeah, balancing everything and trying to raise it all up at once turned out to be a waste of my afternoon and got me nothing but a smashed finger.

Trailing arms are on and I'm not gonna pull those back off if at all possible. The tight fit with the new delrin bushings made it really hard (for me at least) to install. I would go crazy trying to do it again under the car.

I've put in a few diffs before, so I'm OK doing it. No hassle dropping out the diff either right now since the whole assembly is still on the ground :)

Thx for responses.

[monty23psk]

I have done it by myself with OEM parts. Just need jack stands to hold it up balanced while using a car jack. Use shims of wood along the way like blocks of wood.

[KenC]

Take the rotors off of the trailing arms and it will be a lot easier.

[drumad]

I heard taking the hard brake lines off help with weight reduction as well. Every ounce counts.

[lateracer]

Update -
While I'm sure it's possible as a solo job, I've got two jacks and four jack stands already tied up keeping both the car and the subframe in the air. For me, I don't really have the equipment, time, patience (or skill) to install it fully assembled.

Pulling the diff FTW!!!!

Two hours of cussin' and frustration yesterday turned into 30 minutes of first try win today. Subframe is in, diff is back in, time to button up this thing and get back on the road. Thanks a ton Ken and drumad. There should be a tip jar on R3v.

[jlevie]

I always R&R the subframe with the differential attached. You just need to find a decent balance point on the floor jack. And it is so much easier if you drive the subframe bolts up into the car.

[drumad]

^eh? as in have the head of the bolt going outboard? with the threads going inboard??

I always feel removing and reinstalling a subframe is a rite of passage for e30ers. BTW good job!