Prices on replacing hard brake lines

[Simon S]

After reviewing this thread - I'm noting above where a guy purchased copper lines. As far as OE vs. parts store - I will say that the copper lines sound pretty f'ing attractive to me now..

Also - I've posted what I'm running into at length in a realated thread.

[Simon S]

I purchased the long line from dealer because I was afraid - like yourself - of it getting bent in shipping. When I picked it up from the ass-raping local dealer, it had three very soft bends in it - forming a kind of triangle. I was fine with this. It was easy to transport - and its coating wasn't comprimised.

Benifit of OE: correct length. no flaring to do on ends. If you get lines from parts store, then you need flaring tools.

Cost is negligible between OE and parts store when it's said and done.

As far as coating - that's a tricky one. The OE lines have a sort of plastic/rubberized coating already on them. I don't think 'painting the plastic' will be worth while. Maybe though. Shit - can't say for sure there..

[jrobie79]

so where are you guys getting your hardlines? I suppose I could drive up to bavauto so they dont bend in shipping, but can you buy the right size at an autoparts store? I figured I would throw a coat of por-15 on my lines after everything is all hooked up and known to be working, that way I can avoid this in the future....good idea or no?

[KVF]

I paid $15 for a doulble-side, three wrench set of metric brake line wrenchs at the local Autozone.

And that's here in the land of cowboys and pick-up trucks.

Lol. It's all good. Here in yuppie land I couldn't find an AutoZone, Sears, or anyone else that had one.

ditto. I'm good on flare wrenches - it's the routing I'm worried about..

Yeah, I've seen your stellar work and I'm surprised you didn't already tackle this. However, if you don't care to run the lines in the factory location, you can just rough them out with sub in place and route the new ones as you like (make sure to keep them out of harms way). Otherwise, you don't need the sub all the way out... You can simply lower it. Good luck guys.

[Simon S]

I paid $15 for a doulble-side, three wrench set of metric brake line wrenchs at the local Autozone.

ditto. I'm good on flare wrenches - it's the routing I'm worried about..

[z31maniac]

Also, you may already know, but you'll probably never find an 11mm flare/brake line wrench. 7/16 is the exact same size. :up:

I paid $15 for a doulble-side, three wrench set of metric brake line wrenchs at the local Autozone.

And that's here in the land of cowboys and pick-up trucks.

[Simon S]

Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
That's not what I want to hear.. over the last six years, I've refreshed most everything on the undercarriage. Man - I am really kicking myself for ignoring that rusty line now. The thought of dropping the exhaust - and the subframe - and all the shit that goes with it just makes me want to cry.

[KVF]

My front to rear line went and I initially tried to replace it at the t fitting with sub-frame in place; NIGHTMARE. Living in this area simply means you are going to have rust up there and you really need to drop the sub to get at it correctly. Once you do drop the sub it's a piece of cake. I flared and bent all new rear lines using copper line from autozone (all new fittings as well). It's easier to bend by hand and will never rust. Replacing it all gave me piece of mind and it was only about 45-50 bucks total in parts. Good luck.

Also, you may already know, but you'll probably never find an 11mm flare/brake line wrench. 7/16 is the exact same size. :up:

[Simon S]

It never ends..
Just discovered leaking/corroded hard brake line to rear.

I have a bender - and I'm good with it - but after looking over how it routes, plus all the corroded fasteners, I'm pretty sure the job is a great deal less than "fun".

Oi vey.

[erik325i]

Excellant, I think i might just try and do it myself the line is from the rear T fitting to the drivers side caliper ( have heard this is the hardest one). Anybody done this line, i've heard you need to lower subframe to get access?

I've replaced the hard lines to both rear calipers on my M3 since the fittings got rusted/seized and I had to rape them to get them off.
I don't think I dropped the subframe to get to them, but I did drop the gastank. Your results may differ.

If you're going to do it yourself, just go buy a brake line bender. They are cheap and much better than trying to rig up a homemade contraption or risk kinking a line.

Erik

[gannett43]

Excellant, I think i might just try and do it myself the line is from the rear T fitting to the drivers side caliper ( have heard this is the hardest one). Anybody done this line, i've heard you need to lower subframe to get access?

[99em1]

If the line is corroded/rusty then I'd definitely replace it asap. Unless you think you can't safely do it yourself, I'd avoid a shop since brake work usually costs a fortune while parts themselves are cheap.

As long as you use the correct flare wrenches, you shouldn't damage any lines. Just rig up a good system to bend the lines proper and knock it out. I got a wooden board I found lying around, put a couple nails in it and borrowed some pulleys from a set my dad has for an airplane he's building. The grooves in the pulley were perfect for seating the line, and I applied the right pressure to bend the line without crimping or damaging it.

As for other hard lines failing due to a new one, I've never heard of that, and it doesn't really make sense to me. I can't see how a metal line can fail unless it was failing to begin with.

[Sagaris]

Having replaced a brake line on a corolla, I can definitely agree with you wanting to have a shop do it. I would only consider doing the job myself again if a shop charged over $500. You have to handle them carefully as to not chip the coating on them and allow more external corrosion to happen.

[gannett43]

one of the lines has a hole in it near where it meets the caliper soft line. Ive heard if you just replace one than the other lines might start leaking? ,but has anyone had them done at a shop and can give me a price? On one line or four whatever someone has had done, im looking for a rough estimate, nothing crazy specific. Thanks for the responses.

[rThor432]

Well, considering the failed/failing hard lines I had on my last New Hampshire car I think I can guess why he wants to replace one/several of the hard lines. I'm pretty sure that even the clutch hard line on my NH car was rusted through.. The line that fails most often is the supply line to the rear brakes that runs to the T fitting. Is that the line that you are talking about [OP]?

Even if they aren't leaking, but are corroded (like the rear T fitting often is) they should be addressed-- that's a bad reason to fail a tech inspection.