Prices on replacing hard brake lines

[gannett43]

Im wondering how much it would be to do the hard line in my 318is. Also would it just be best to do all four. If anyone in the new hampshire are wants to make money i have a garage.

[matias88e30]

U mean the brake lines?... its not that hard... theres a thread at e30tech i think on how to do that

[erik325i]

Im wondering how much it would be to do the hard line in my 318is.

How much it costs to have them replaced depends on what shop you go to and how many/which ones you are replacing. Some are easy to get to, and some are a pain in the ass. The lines come pre-flared with fittings on them, but you will still need to bend them into shape.

Also would it just be best to do all four.

First off, there are more than four hard lines in an e30.
Secondly, how many you replace depend on what's wrong with them. Why do you want to replace them anyways?

Erik

[99em1]

Are they corroded or leaking? I don't see the point of replacing lines that are still good. The line itself is cheap, but bending them to the right shape is a PITA and is where all the time goes. Just make sure you have the right flare nut wrenches (11 and 14mm?) to properly remove/tighten the lines without mangling them.

[rThor432]

Well, considering the failed/failing hard lines I had on my last New Hampshire car I think I can guess why he wants to replace one/several of the hard lines. I'm pretty sure that even the clutch hard line on my NH car was rusted through.. The line that fails most often is the supply line to the rear brakes that runs to the T fitting. Is that the line that you are talking about [OP]?

Even if they aren't leaking, but are corroded (like the rear T fitting often is) they should be addressed-- that's a bad reason to fail a tech inspection.

[gannett43]

one of the lines has a hole in it near where it meets the caliper soft line. Ive heard if you just replace one than the other lines might start leaking? ,but has anyone had them done at a shop and can give me a price? On one line or four whatever someone has had done, im looking for a rough estimate, nothing crazy specific. Thanks for the responses.

[Sagaris]

Having replaced a brake line on a corolla, I can definitely agree with you wanting to have a shop do it. I would only consider doing the job myself again if a shop charged over $500. You have to handle them carefully as to not chip the coating on them and allow more external corrosion to happen.

[99em1]

If the line is corroded/rusty then I'd definitely replace it asap. Unless you think you can't safely do it yourself, I'd avoid a shop since brake work usually costs a fortune while parts themselves are cheap.

As long as you use the correct flare wrenches, you shouldn't damage any lines. Just rig up a good system to bend the lines proper and knock it out. I got a wooden board I found lying around, put a couple nails in it and borrowed some pulleys from a set my dad has for an airplane he's building. The grooves in the pulley were perfect for seating the line, and I applied the right pressure to bend the line without crimping or damaging it.

As for other hard lines failing due to a new one, I've never heard of that, and it doesn't really make sense to me. I can't see how a metal line can fail unless it was failing to begin with.

[gannett43]

Excellant, I think i might just try and do it myself the line is from the rear T fitting to the drivers side caliper ( have heard this is the hardest one). Anybody done this line, i've heard you need to lower subframe to get access?

[erik325i]

Excellant, I think i might just try and do it myself the line is from the rear T fitting to the drivers side caliper ( have heard this is the hardest one). Anybody done this line, i've heard you need to lower subframe to get access?

I've replaced the hard lines to both rear calipers on my M3 since the fittings got rusted/seized and I had to rape them to get them off.
I don't think I dropped the subframe to get to them, but I did drop the gastank. Your results may differ.

If you're going to do it yourself, just go buy a brake line bender. They are cheap and much better than trying to rig up a homemade contraption or risk kinking a line.

Erik

[Simon S]

It never ends..
Just discovered leaking/corroded hard brake line to rear.

I have a bender - and I'm good with it - but after looking over how it routes, plus all the corroded fasteners, I'm pretty sure the job is a great deal less than "fun".

Oi vey.

[KVF]

My front to rear line went and I initially tried to replace it at the t fitting with sub-frame in place; NIGHTMARE. Living in this area simply means you are going to have rust up there and you really need to drop the sub to get at it correctly. Once you do drop the sub it's a piece of cake. I flared and bent all new rear lines using copper line from autozone (all new fittings as well). It's easier to bend by hand and will never rust. Replacing it all gave me piece of mind and it was only about 45-50 bucks total in parts. Good luck.

Also, you may already know, but you'll probably never find an 11mm flare/brake line wrench. 7/16 is the exact same size. :up:

[Simon S]

Jesus. Fucking. Christ.
That's not what I want to hear.. over the last six years, I've refreshed most everything on the undercarriage. Man - I am really kicking myself for ignoring that rusty line now. The thought of dropping the exhaust - and the subframe - and all the shit that goes with it just makes me want to cry.

[z31maniac]

Also, you may already know, but you'll probably never find an 11mm flare/brake line wrench. 7/16 is the exact same size. :up:

I paid $15 for a doulble-side, three wrench set of metric brake line wrenchs at the local Autozone.

And that's here in the land of cowboys and pick-up trucks.

[Simon S]

I paid $15 for a doulble-side, three wrench set of metric brake line wrenchs at the local Autozone.

ditto. I'm good on flare wrenches - it's the routing I'm worried about..