A couple days ago my brakes were GREAT, the pads seem fine and yesterday my brake pedal was close to the floor (now they don't work AT ALL). I checked my brake fluid and when they were working it was at half, a day later (when the pedal was low) it was at 1/4. So I checked my brake lines while pumping the clutch and nothing happened... The lines seem fine. What would be the problem? Could a falty master cylinder cause these symptoms? any help or advise would be greatly appreciated because I can't use my car to go to work in the mean time. THANKS
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Sounds like a bad master cylinder. The seals will go and you will lose the brakes. Could be a bad clutch master/ clutch slave that drained your brake master cylinder reservoir (they are connected), but it's unlikely. If your clutch still works fine, then it is't that. -
Brake master its either the front seal that is ripped and fluid is just circulating between one another, or rear seal is bad and leaking into booster. If it is leaking into booster fix asap fluid will eat through the rubber and things will really be fun then...Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.Comment
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My clutch still works fine. How fast is fix asap? within a week?Comment
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I replaced mine in about an hour and a half, including bleeding the brakes. It's a simple repair.
Buy a NEW brake MC, not a used one. I bought a 'Used, but in perfect working condition" MC that was, of course, broken.
Make sure you get the right MC. Girling vs. ATE, and make sure you get it for the right year and model.‘Tis by the grace of God that my cars run!Originally posted by LJ851
Siobhan's Build Thread - UPDATED!Originally posted by unloadedak
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Ok. You sure its the master cylinder? is 250$ a reasonable price to pay for a MC? on pelicanComment
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If fluid is disappearing and you can't find any leaks at the lines or calipers, the master cylinder has failed. The missing fluid will be inside the brake booster and that means that you will also have to replace the booster. Brake fluid will kill the booster very quickly.
The master cylinder and booster will run about $450The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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I found a master cylinder (used) but from a guy I know, guaranteed to work if not he'll pay me back.. Are you guys sure the booster is dead too?Comment
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Just do the master cylinder, it will probably be fine since it hasn't been that long.Comment
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Nobody is going to be sure over the internet op. AS stated above MC is most likely the problem unless your brake lines are leaking OR you have massive amount of air in the system. When you replace MC, inspect the booster, and then you'll be able to decide if it needs to be replaced or not.
Why take short-cuts with brake system, this is just as bad as buying shittiest / cheapest tires possible...but that's another topic lolMtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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I know :P I'm being cheap on this because I was going to start buying suspension, wheels, interior, ect... have a list of 20 things to do and this cuts into that list for this summer.. So this just delayed that a bit and I guess I don't wanna spend money on a booster that I just dont need...
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Ill try to find a DIY for removing the MC.. My dad doesn't want me doing it in the driveway because of the oil mess after.. so idk whats up for nowComment
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A used master cylinder is a real crap shoot. It may, or may not, work once installed, or it may fail soon after installation. Brakes being a rather important part of the car there's no way I'd trust a used master cylinder.
If brake fluid has leaked into the booster the question isn't whether it will fail, but when. If the fluid level has been dropping and there are no leaks, the only place the fluid could have gone is into the booster. So the only realistic approach is to replace the master and booster with new parts. I usually replace the reservoir at the same time, rebuild all of the calipers and replace the soft brake lines.
Suspension, wheels, interior, or other tweaks should come after the car's mechanicals have been put into first class condition. Most E30's, being 20'ish year old cars, need at least:I know :P I'm being cheap on this because I was going to start buying suspension, wheels, interior, ect... have a list of 20 things to do and this cuts into that list for this summer.. So this just delayed that a bit and I guess I don't wanna spend money on a booster that I just dont need...
All parts of the cooling system replaced (including the fan clutch)
New Ignition wires, rotor, and distributor cap
Control arms and bushings
Tie rods
Subframe and trailing arm bushings
Shocks & upper mounts
Motor, transmission, and differential bushings
Shifter bushings
Brake system rebuild
Camshaft seal
Unless recently replaced a new clutch, main seal, and transmission seals are probably needed along with the clutch master & slave cylinder.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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The brake booster for a 318is is 464$.. FUCK. I am about to cry right nowComment
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-I'm gonna buy a full z4 2.5 shifter kit new so no need to replace shifter bushings.
-M50 swap maybe so if I do no need for motor, transmission and diff bushings (lsd swap, too), and camshaft seal
-suspension job: ground control coilovers with bilstein sport shocks.
Control arms and bushings
Tie rods
Subframe and trailing arm bushings.... No idea what the fuck these are :P
All parts of the cooling system replaced (including the fan clutch)
New Ignition wires, rotor, and distributor cap... My car never overheats and I drive it like a bmw should be most of the time.
And Brake system rebuild, well I guess that is what i'm doing...
New wheels and paint should make me happyComment
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