brakes failed: LEAKING FROM SUBFRAME :( ?

[Ceeker]

I had the same problem last year and I didn't cut anything I unbolted bent a new line and screwed it back in the junction fitting. it was a bitch of a job!

[lolcantturn]

I had the same problem last year and I didn't cut anything I unbolted bent a new line and screwed it back in the junction fitting. it was a bitch of a job!

Can you state the steps you did? Was it a burst hard line or rubber line? I'm clueless on how to approach this, but I am cutting it to avoid stripping anything

[Jean]

You are on east coast, chances are a metal T adapter or lines rusted through.. ... why not get the car on the jack stands, get under there with a flash light and mirror and inspect it all?

[KVF]

It's best to lower your rear subframe and replace the T fitting and all of the rear brake lines. You don't have to take the subframe out. Support it with a jack, unbolt the hex bolts at the bottom of the quarters and the two subframe bushing bolts and pry the subframe down. Makes it much easier. I grabbed copper line from autozone and replaced all of the hardlines. It's easier to bend and will never rust. You just need a bubble flare tool. The hardest line to deal with is the long one that runs from the middle of the t junction to the front of the car. You'll seriously test your patience reaching the front fitting on the drivers side fender. Unfortunately, from your video it looks like this may be the line that busted... Hard to really tell cause its a bit shaky when you try to focus on the t junction.

BTW... The way Massive explains is definitely easier, but just remember that you'll need to buy new rubber lines (or stainless) at that point as well. Search replacing hardlines and you'll find a few good write ups on the job. Take your time and get it done correctly, it doesn't get any more critical than brakes and tires. Good luck.

[FredK]

It's best to lower your rear subframe and replace the T fitting and all of the rear brake lines.

Yep. KVF is 100 percent right here. Don't even bother trying to loosen the T-fitting from your chassis. It is rusted in place.

This is a terrible job to have to do. Good luck dude.

[E30SPDFRK]

If you're pressed for time and don't mind it not looking good, you can cut the old sections and just leave the old T fitting attached to the car, then run lines in a new location with a new T fitting. As long as they're away from all moving parts they'll be fine not being in the original location.

[lolcantturn]

You are on east coast, chances are a metal T adapter or lines rusted through.. ... why not get the car on the jack stands, get under there with a flash light and mirror and inspect it all?

The car's lived in warm Georgia weather all its life until I bought it. Almost completely rust-free. The T-fitting does look rusted as fuck though.

It's best to lower your rear subframe and replace the T fitting and all of the rear brake lines. You don't have to take the subframe out. Support it with a jack, unbolt the hex bolts at the bottom of the quarters and the two subframe bushing bolts and pry the subframe down. Makes it much easier. I grabbed copper line from autozone and replaced all of the hardlines. It's easier to bend and will never rust. You just need a bubble flare tool. The hardest line to deal with is the long one that runs from the middle of the t junction to the front of the car. You'll seriously test your patience reaching the front fitting on the drivers side fender. Unfortunately, from your video it looks like this may be the line that busted... Hard to really tell cause its a bit shaky when you try to focus on the t junction.

BTW... The way Massive explains is definitely easier, but just remember that you'll need to buy new rubber lines (or stainless) at that point as well. Search replacing hardlines and you'll find a few good write ups on the job. Take your time and get it done correctly, it doesn't get any more critical than brakes and tires. Good luck.

Much appreciated man. I'm going to see what I can do without dropping the subframe first. The way you explained it it seems less nerveracking, but I'll drop it if I have to. I have pretty tiny hands that have been useful in getting me out of tough E30 situations before, so I hope they come in handy here. If not, I'll definitely be dropping the subframe.

Yep. KVF is 100 percent right here. Don't even bother trying to loosen the T-fitting from your chassis. It is rusted in place.

This is a terrible job to have to do. Good luck dude.

Thanks man. :(

If you're pressed for time and don't mind it not looking good, you can cut the old sections and just leave the old T fitting attached to the car, then run lines in a new location with a new T fitting. As long as they're away from all moving parts they'll be fine not being in the original location.

I was thinking this. This is true. If worst comes to worst, and I can't drop the subframe for whatever reason, this will be a last resort.



Unfortunately it is 25* below normal here in Jersey.. (It's 25* out, should be mid 50's) so this is going to be extremely aggravating to say the least.
I'm going to at least try and get the old T-fitting out and then make a plan of action.

[lolcantturn]

narrowed it down to the T-fitting. It almost doesn't seem like the hardline is burst persay, but it's leaking right from where the line meets the fitting.



I'm going to drive down to Guten right now to pick up a trans for my friend. I let it soak in Liquid wrench for the time being and then I'll decide on how to remove it. It doesn't look terribly too rusted.

[Pussy30]

i'm going to drive down to guten right now to pick up a trans for my friend.

<3

[KVF]

Unfortunately, that does appear to be the long line that comes from the front of the car. Getting it off the t fitting is the easy part. That line appears heavily rusted, and once you start tracing it, you'll find it does not section off; it runs all the way up the ds fender into the bottom off some sort of plunger type connection. Replacing that line separates the men from the boys! Hopefully I'm wrong and the line in question just leads to you trailing arm rubber lines, but I'm pretty sure I'm correct. Good luck!

[lolcantturn]

Unfortunately, that does appear to be the long line that comes from the front of the car. Getting it off the t fitting is the easy part. That line appears heavily rusted, and once you start tracing it, you'll find it does not section off; it runs all the way up the ds fender into the bottom off some sort of plunger type connection. Replacing that line separates the men from the boys! Hopefully I'm wrong and the line in question just leads to you trailing arm rubber lines, but I'm pretty sure I'm correct. Good luck!

Its actually the line that goes to the trailing arm. It honestly beats me why BMW would put the mount so far back from the T fitting, where the hard meets the rubber line. I don't know how I'm going to reach that. The worst part is is that these fittings are ELEVEN millimeters! They couldn't make it 10 or 12? wahhh. I'm also a tad claustrophobic so this is even worse haha

[KVF]

Glad to hear it is the easier line, but I still advocate dropping the sub and replacing all that crap. Its just too easy to tweak one of the other lines while your trying to free one line from that old fitting. Either way good luck. Also, 11mm is the same as 7/16, which is why you'll never find an 11mm brake line wrench. Grab a 7/16th if you don't already have one and have at it. Again, good luck!

[lolcantturn]

Glad to hear it is the easier line, but I still advocate dropping the sub and replacing all that crap. Its just too easy to tweak one of the other lines while your trying to free one line from that old fitting. Either way good luck. Also, 11mm is the same as 7/16, which is why you'll never find an 11mm brake line wrench. Grab a 7/16th if you don't already have one and have at it. Again, good luck!

I'll drop the subframe if I really have to, but for now, everything seems to be going fine.
I got the hardline off the mount that's all the way in the back, the really hard to reach mount. I tried loosening the line on the T-fitting, but it seemed damn near impossible. I kind of stripped it, and resorted to vice grips, but it's hard to reach in there. I'm going to try and get a BFP (big fucking plier) in there to loosen it. Or should I just cut the hard line with a dremel and use a 10mm socket and remove it?

[lolcantturn]

Or should I just cut the hard line with a dremel and use a 10mm socket and remove it?

Does anyone know if this is wise to do?

[LJ851]

Does anyone know if this is wise to do?

if you are going to replace the line anyway it shouldnt hurt much.