Originally posted by M-technik-3
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Who here does their own alignment?
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Originally posted by bimmerteck View PostOK, that explains it, the only "Stock" vehicle I have is my wife's, the e30 gets everything adjusted since it's running a GC setup.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
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Originally posted by M-technik-3 View PostWhat arms were used? is the wheel placement off so it can't be set in proper placement will make a difference.
It just means he needs to toss some parts in the trash first.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
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Get an initial alignment at a shop but unless you do major changes the "at home" system is great for "tweaks" and dialing in frequent track/racers!
Here's how I do it...
String:
Sharpie:
Jack stands:
Tape measure:
Straight edge (metal):
Cheap magnetic angle finder:
Box of 12x12 1/8" thick composite tiles:
Bucket of water and a long 1/4" tube zip tied to a yard stick or similar:
1. Mark where your tires sit in your garage and then pull the car out. Then center and outline the tire patches w. the 12x12 tiles.
2. Set the bucket of water on a jack in the center of were your 4 wheels are marked out. Adjust the height so the water shows up on the yard stick somewhere in the middle so you have a range. (make sure there's no air in the line)
3. Find your highest point and put 2 tiles there. Then level the remaining spots to that spot. My garage is 2/4/9/11 tiles for my tire patches. I put lithium grease in between the bottom 2 at each spot.
4. Find a spot on your jack stands that is the same height as your hub centers. Tie the string there and stretch it out past the wheels front/back.
5. Square the "hub faces" of your wheels (since the front/rear hubs are not equal depths) and set your string there front and back.
6. Measure toe from the outer lips of each wheel (not tire).
7. Make a straight edge that is equal to your wheel lip diameter to place your angle finder on for camber.
After lifting or adjusting anything I just tug on the tires to make sure thee suspension is settled prior to remeasuring.
Any questions to clear anything up just ask.. It's very simple and accurate enough for most people I know at the track!
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I got a "pro" alignment done at a shop after doing a simple string alignment similar to what is described above. Instead of a slight pull to the right like I had when I used a string and tape measure I now have a more noticeable pull to the left. Obviously I will not be going to that shop again, fucking retards. All new front end components BTW.
'89 Alpine S52 with goodies
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