4 point lower cross brace

[Jaxx_]

You are welcome to take this however you want I was just reviewing a mostly unknown product and giving some first hand experience. Also why wouldbmw make nearly an identical brace for the e36 if it wasn't beneficial. I drive a 318is with 277k miles on it I just want the car to feel solid when I turn and go over bumps not net .0003 seconds faster lap time. I can much easier justify spending 144 on this than dumping tons of cash building an NA m10 on standalone (coming from someone who has dumped a lot of money into an 8v)

Keep in mind that the E36 is heavier and is generally has less NVH. Let's face it, you're guessing at the differences in the chassis. At the end of the day, I wasn't trying to knock your decision because it doesn't improve performance, but simply I was interested in if it did. I understand you only wanted less NVH and I can respect that.



Also, you may not be competitive but I'm close to the limit of FSP in Solo II. The standalone is really for the turbo I have and not for an N/A build. However, if you want to knock others for their purchases because of your lack of understanding, that's fine, it doesn't bother me.

[Fidhle007]

I have an S50 car on GAZ coilovers and it will be getting a cross-brace. Sure, I hope it will improve things in the feel and handling department on track days but in general I'm thinking of it as an added measure of security for a 22 year-old chassis that's getting 650lb springs and rigid everything. Would I put one on my m20-powered daily driver? Not a chance in hell...

[fuzzysux]

You are welcome to take this however you want I was just reviewing a mostly unknown product and giving some first hand experience. Also why would bmw make nearly an identical brace for the e36 if it wasn't beneficial. I drive a 318is with 277k miles on it I just want the car to feel solid when I turn and go over bumps not net .0003 seconds faster lap time. I can much easier justify spending 144 on this than dumping tons of cash building an NA m10 on standalone (coming from someone who has dumped a lot of money into an 8v)

thank you for sharing and reviewing! i wish i caught this earlier! next time you are under your car, can you measure some of these basic dimensions for us? i would like to make my own. i was under an impression that there was some z axis stuff going on, but i see that it is (supposed) to be perfectly flat (no z axis) so it is incredibly easy to make!

thanks for sharing your findings!

[SimplyDope]

understandable. but I can't justify even spending $100 on something that someone feels like it improves drivability and that's it. Maybe if this sorted out some understeer. And believe me, a modification can make a car easier to drive but slower around the track but that doesn't mean that since it's easier to drive it's faster simply because it's easier to drive. At the end of the day, we all know the butt dyno is unreliable, I just think threads with lack luster information and the one person who claims it does wonders is the person with the most bias.(the only person who happened to drop $150 and wants to tell themselves didn't waste their money)

But maybe I'm just being too cautious, since there are many "i need shorter endlinks for no reason" threads and other such non-sense, I take most r3v posts with a heavy serving of salt.

You should email the guys over at Mason Engineering. The reason why their product is so expensive is because of the R&D that has gone into it. They would be the ones to ask for hard data, not some noob on r3v. Any product can be tested for hard data like what you and others are after. Just don't expect the price of said product to be $100 still when all is said and done. Also, there are so many different variables to be considered, it would be really hard to find something useable. And, just like with all the rest of the suspension/chassis-strengthening components we like to throw at our cars, they all work together. Anyhow, I don't know shit either, so take my opinion with a grain of salt :)

[Aerton]

Has anyone added this to a convertible? My convertible flexes like crazy specially after the Bilsteins and H&R springs.

[Wishno87]

Has anyone added this to a convertible? My convertible flexes like crazy specially after the Bilsteins and H&R springs.

Great upgrade for a convertible. Have one on mine.

[Wishno87]

Also that aluminum mason one is drool. I shall acquire one.

[ejnight]

Has anyone added this to a convertible? My convertible flexes like crazy specially after the Bilsteins and H&R springs.

This was the same set up I had on my car when I first made the brace. I had a bad shake when I hit a bump. This fix the problem. Thats all the data I need. BUY U.S made and you dont have to reweld and paint the new parts. ;)

[petrolhead]

Have any of you ever done any tests on E30 chassis flex, in any way ? It's not that bad for an old small car.

Anywayway those x-braces , strut bars.. They do look "race" or what ever, have to be worth 5-15 bhp.

[FLG]

A simple test which might shed some light on if it helps with chassis flex..

Jack up one side of your e30 and try to open the doors...bet its much harder than on all four wheels.

Install brace and see if this makes any difference.

It probably will help some.

[shoguncro]

give us measures so we can build it

you can build it for under 20 $

[jjmtools]

give us measures so we can build it

you can build it for under 20 $

go for it

dude = it's not rocket science
just connect the dots, with your gypo tools harbor freight welder
it's as simple as neuro micro brain surgery on a gorilla

[shoguncro]

go for it

dude = it's not rocket science
just connect the dots, with your gypo tools harbor freight welder
it's as simple as neuro micro brain surgery on a gorilla

I know thats not science but, maybe it needs to be a bit shorter so the cars is stifer

PS. dont have a harbor F. wleder have a Hecules :D

[petrolhead]

A simple test which might shed some light on if it helps with chassis flex..

Jack up one side of your e30 and try to open the doors...bet its much harder than on all four wheels.

Install brace and see if this makes any difference.

It probably will help some.

You know , I've read a lot of people write stuff like that. Another popular thing is to mention that a strut bar will go in place when standing on the ground but once you jack up one corner it won't fit. I've spent some_time doing that , measuring stuff etc. on an undamaged_rust_free_car (2d) and an empty 2d shell rotating right now on a rotisserie. Now , what I've come to believe is that an undamaged chassis doesn't flex all that much , and where it is weak , there aren't that many ready-to-bolt-on-aftermarket-things one will really benefit from. Apart from a full cage.

Feel free to disagree everyone :)
Peace


-Jarno

[FLG]

Honestly, i think they do flex quite a bit (nothing compared to my 73 charger, before installing weld in frame connectors). But if i jack up my e30 form a corner, or even put it on a 4 post lift, the doors are now more difficult to open/close. This is on a rust free Arizona car with the only accident being the one that i inflicted but was only a fender scuff, the rest of the panels are rust free and original.