Do I need a poly diff mount to go with poly SFBs?

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  • shiboujin
    replied
    Delrin is technically "Self lubricating". I did use some grease on the inside of the metal insert though

    I'm not sure if it's how you want to go. streetable would be 80A not delrin. If you want hard for that herra frush, go aluminum everything and delrin for the trailing arm bushings. Might as well get the akg raised subframe solid mount kit.

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  • nando
    replied
    you don't lube delrin. it's self lubricating.

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  • Wishno87
    replied
    So delrin is the way to go then? How should I best lubricate them? I still have a huge pipe of lucas red n' tacky from my camber plates. Can I use that?

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  • nando
    replied
    I haven't had any squeaks in 100k+ with IE RTABs, but the original version fits very tight. the TA moves about the steel center bushing, not the urethane. There's no reason it should squeak.

    I believe newer ones are smaller (for easier installation - mine are nearly press-fit), which tend to move and cause squeaks.

    delrin could be a good choice, as long as you didn't go too stiff on the subframe and diff. I don't really think the TA's will cause substantial increase in NVH since it has to also be transmitted through the subframe and diff bushing before it hits the body.

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  • shiboujin
    replied
    I run 75D delrin with no squeaks. Delrin is "self lubricating" while regular poly tends to bind. If it starts squeaking, shove some grease in there and keep going. Although, for a stance car, I don't think it's that necessary unless you have like 500whp.

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  • Wishno87
    replied
    Originally posted by shiboujin
    Hmm. That's out of the bounds of my knowledge. I would assume you would want as stiff as possible. Even the smallest thing could be the difference between hella flush and hella smashing up your fenders.
    haha no kidding right? As far as TABs are there any slight upgrades I can make over stock E30 without going to squeaky poly there?

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  • shiboujin
    replied
    Hmm. That's out of the bounds of my knowledge. I would assume you would want as stiff as possible. Even the smallest thing could be the difference between hella flush and hella smashing up your fenders.

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  • Wishno87
    replied
    lol I like that ^

    But what if its a stancecar?

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  • shiboujin
    replied
    Here. I made a decision tree for you.

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  • shiboujin
    replied
    If not tracking, then yes. go 80A and I suppose the MZ3 diff bushing or an 80A diff bushing.

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  • Wishno87
    replied
    Ahh sorry guys my mistake. 80A is what im looking for right?

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  • shiboujin
    replied


    nah look at the scale. A is softer than D.

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  • Wishno87
    replied
    I thought 75D was the softest poly? Are MZ3 SFBs harder than stock E30?

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  • shiboujin
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    how many street miles a year you put on that thing? ;)
    a few thousand at this point. Drive the car to the track, beat it, drive home. It is a bit noisy but it isn't beyond a daily. I actually like hearing the feedback. Lets you know what the car is doing.

    Originally posted by Wishno87
    I was planning for 75d SFBs so you think the MZ3 will do the trick then? You think the two metal plates on each side make up for the lack of material on the top and bottom?
    If you do 75d for the subframe, you need 75d for the diff. The MZ3 will 100% not do it.

    Originally posted by nando
    reconsider 75D subframe bushings. they are going to be very stiff. not as stiff as solid aluminum, but close enough to drive you nuts on the street.

    they probably used less rubber because the bushing is overall stiffer (and they used more steel instead). there has to be some give somewhere. if you try to move it in your hands you won't be able to.
    I kind of agree. It won't make your car feel much stiffer. That's what your suspension does. But it will transfer more noise and make it SOUND harsher.

    Are you going to track the car? If so, just skip the poly and go straight aluminum. The diff between 75d and aluminum isn't that much. If you want to street it, I'd stick in the A shore level of bushings like 90A max.

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  • nando
    replied
    reconsider 75D subframe bushings. they are going to be very stiff. not as stiff as solid aluminum, but close enough to drive you nuts on the street.

    they probably used less rubber because the bushing is overall stiffer (and they used more steel instead). there has to be some give somewhere. if you try to move it in your hands you won't be able to.

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