abs delete? worth it?

[yeaseth]

I took mine off because my ABS unit was bad and causing havoc on my brake system. Now that it's off my brakes work amazing. I won't get technical but the ABS unit was restricting the fluid going to my calipers and never even activated the whole time I had it(no matter how hard I slammed on the brakes in any weather condition) Since I've had such a rough time with my ABS I'm glad it's no where to be seen. In my case I'm gaining performance but I know that's not the case with people that have perfectly working ABS systems, just dont ignore the fact that your ABS units are probably 20 years old like mine was...

[browntown]

You see, every move the ABS computer makes is based on an EXPECTED result! If you mess around with bias through pads, BBK, bias valves or masters, the result of a timed valve change in the pump MAY NOT be as expected, and the ABS computer will believe its due to road conditions and wheel slippage that is changing... it will be faked out because you've messed with the mechanical bias... so you get into loops of poor compensation and BAD ABS results.

This is one of the reasons I removed my abs, when I put a different master cylinder on the car, I was never sure the abs was working as planned. Of course then I need an adjustable bias valve.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

How did you test it? Snow/ice surface? Rain?

we dont have ice were i live i just did it by panic stoping and it never seemed like it went on but then again the tires never locked ether but maybe thats just because of my tires

[M3 euro ltw]

This is one of the reasons I removed my abs, when I put a different master cylinder on the car, I was never sure the abs was working as planned. Of course then I need an adjustable bias valve.

If you substituted a 23/23 for a 25/25 master, you've not changed the bias at all in terms of front to rear bias. You've actually just decreased pedal travel and increased the force needed to achieve the same line pressure.

Ie a stiffer, shorter pedal. (fine if you're strong)

I'd personally be careful with adjustable bias valves. They do not really work as most people believe they do.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/proportioning-valves

The technical papers on StopTech's website are incredible and very, very helpful to learn some of the basics about how brake systems work. Just be aware that adjustable bias valves and static bias valves are nearly a thing of the past given how even next gen BMW (E36) did away with them as the EBD became more powerful.

EBD is incredibly "better" most of the time for determining the bias you want on your car because it can adjust it on the fly based on pressure sensors as well as speed signals showing impending (not yet!) lock up.

While most people agree that a performance set up will be 60-70% front biased, a quick reference to more modern cars (say E46 and on) will show a puzzling trend to biases closer to 55-60.

Why? Well, the EBD is so damn powerful in modern cars that you can take advantage of more rear bias safely under less than ultimate braking situations where the weight is all forward, and you need all the bias up front. A simple mechanical system without ABS and its built-in EBD will never be able to supply the higher rear bias you might want in many situations because of the static (or adjustable) bias valve, or need to set it to a pre-set and unalterable bias of say 65% front. The downside to this? Well, if ABS fails, you lose the EBD, and you lock up the rear so damn fast that the car will spin and be hard to control in MANY braking situations. (Ask S54 MZ3 drivers who've tried to do without ABS, its a disaster for them)

At the end of the day, if you set up your calipers, masters, pad Cf and rotor size (and a bias valve if cursed with it originally) to approximate the original mechanical bias of the native ABS system, you should be within range of what the EBD built in can compensate for, and run WAY better than without the ABS computer.

Top notch (read professional) drivers will insist on having adjustable bias because they will be able to feel the threshold where ABS kicks in for either EBD or brake pulsing vs what they know the car is capable of with perfect bias. They can adjust the bias via a bias bar so less EBD goes on... they're that good....

Just like an engine management system in closed loop can run very well, it may have to zero in on the right fuel mix, it will perform just a bit better if the map is spot on in the first place, and no "zeroing in" is needed. Like wise for an adjustable balance bar set up in the hands of a pro.

Data-acquisition for the "non-pro" amongst us will guide balance bar set up if one's butt is not up to the task. It might also allow one to test and fine tune an adjustable bias valve for DE or race use.