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Stripped Subframe Balljoint Nut - Help!

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    Stripped Subframe Balljoint Nut - Help!

    Hey Guys,

    Okay, I'm trying to replace my control arms. Got the driver side done, no problem. But the passenger-side has been giving me major issues. I could not get the job done using my 22mm box-end wrench, no matter how much PB Blaster I sprayed and how long it sat. Thing just wouldn't budge, and I was afraid I was starting to strip it (seems like the box-end kept wanting to go on at an angle. I didn't realize this a couple times while applying a lot of force).

    Any case, after more R3V research, I decided to try an impact swivel-head coupled with a long extension to hit it with my impact wrench from the top. I tried 6-point 22mm and a 12-point 7/8" sockets. Again I had trouble getting the sockets on the bolt at the right angle, given the exhaust piping and motor-mount in near proximity. I got the sockets on there best I could and gave it a go - my impact gun didn't have the umph (it's an electric).

    Next I tried using a big torque wrench with this same setup. Unfortunately, it now seems like I've stripped the damn thing.

    Anybody have any ideas short of dropping the entire subframe and cutting it off? I don't have an engine hoist, and I'm a bit wary of supporting the engine just by a jack while I do this. I read somewhere of somebody using a naked hacksaw blade to cut through it from underneath the car, but the nut on his had seized halfway up, so all he had to cut through was the bolt.

    #2
    Originally posted by browndog View Post
    Hey Guys,

    Okay, I'm trying to replace my control arms. Got the driver side done, no problem. But the passenger-side has been giving me major issues. I could not get the job done using my 22mm box-end wrench, no matter how much PB Blaster I sprayed and how long it sat. Thing just wouldn't budge, and I was afraid I was starting to strip it (seems like the box-end kept wanting to go on at an angle. I didn't realize this a couple times while applying a lot of force).

    Any case, after more R3V research, I decided to try an impact swivel-head coupled with a long extension to hit it with my impact wrench from the top. I tried 6-point 22mm and a 12-point 7/8" sockets. Again I had trouble getting the sockets on the bolt at the right angle, given the exhaust piping and motor-mount in near proximity. I got the sockets on there best I could and gave it a go - my impact gun didn't have the umph (it's an electric).

    Next I tried using a big torque wrench with this same setup. Unfortunately, it now seems like I've stripped the damn thing.

    Anybody have any ideas short of dropping the entire subframe and cutting it off? I don't have an engine hoist, and I'm a bit wary of supporting the engine just by a jack while I do this. I read somewhere of somebody using a naked hacksaw blade to cut through it from underneath the car, but the nut on his had seized halfway up, so all he had to cut through was the bolt.

    my drivers side was a PITA. I snapped the ball joint loose. Did you strip the threads or do what I did? I ripped off the boot and clamped on an alligator wrench to stop it from moving.
    2014 Alpine White 335i MSport
    (Daily Driver)
    Full Mperformance Aero

    2007 Black Sapphire Metallic E92 335i (6MT)
    KW V2 Coilovers
    VRSF Catless Downpipes

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      #3
      No, my ball joint is not moving at all. I stripped the actual bolt on top of the subframe. Sounds like we had separate but equal PITA's to deal with, ha.

      Comment


        #4
        Have you tried some heat on the nut?

        Worst case scenario, try to split that nut with a dremel and pound the fucker out.
        IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

        Comment


          #5
          Tried heat to no avail.

          Dremel is an idea. Don't know if I could get it up in there from underneath. But if so, I could use a pickle fork to pound the balljoint from the subframe.

          Comment


            #6
            Get an engine brace from Harbor Freight or similar and use it to support the engine. Then drop the subframe down a few inches to gain access to the nut and use a nut breaker to split the nut and get off.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment


              #7
              Wow - a nut-splitter might be just what I need - thanks jlevie!

              I'm looking at these nut-splitters, and I'm thinking I maybe could get one on there without even dropping the subframe. Just need to find one that's big enough to split a 22mm or 7/8". I'm thinking something like this:



              I could probably only hit it from one angle. If I can just split it on one side, do you think I could separate the ball-joint from the lower subframe with a pickle-fork? Or do I really need to split that nut on two ends opposite each other (so it falls apart).

              Again, thanks for all of your input - it's much appreciated!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                Get an engine brace from Harbor Freight or similar and use it to support the engine. Then drop the subframe down a few inches to gain access to the nut and use a nut breaker to split the nut and get off.
                That is a tool that I need to add to my collection! Excellent post!
                IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by browndog View Post
                  Wow - a nut-splitter might be just what I need - thanks jlevie!

                  I'm looking at these nut-splitters, and I'm thinking I maybe could get one on there without even dropping the subframe. Just need to find one that's big enough to split a 22mm or 7/8". I'm thinking something like this:



                  I could probably only hit it from one angle. If I can just split it on one side, do you think I could separate the ball-joint from the lower subframe with a pickle-fork? Or do I really need to split that nut on two ends opposite each other (so it falls apart).

                  Again, thanks for all of your input - it's much appreciated!
                  You will only need to split the nut on one side.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                  Comment


                    #10
                    OK, I ordered up nut-splitter last night that'll go up to 22mm. Should have it in tomorrow (couldn't find one locally that was big enough). Will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again for all the input!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hey Guys, quick update: my nut-splitter came today (ordered these from Amazon). The big one worked like a charm! It helped that I'd already removed the entire strut assembly on the passenger side to replace the struts/springs, so I was able to get a good angle on the nut and use my big torque wrench to really crank that sucker down. The trick seems to be getting the splitter started. At first, when you start torquing it, it just wants to twist off the nut. But once you get it started, it takes about 5 min of cranking to split the nut. I'm gonna rent a pickle fork from AutoZone tomorrow to hammer between the ball-joint and subframe, hopefully dropping the arm. Again, special thanks to jlevie and everybody who chimed in on this one - much appreciated!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks for the post! Def gotta pick up that set.
                        Swanny!
                        SUCKERS.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          see this is what is supposed to happen

                          Someone has an issue, r3v helps, that same someone UPDATES wtf they did. Thank you OP.
                          Last edited by drumad; 05-04-2012, 01:44 PM.
                          2008 335i - n54b30
                          1991 318i - m52b28
                          1994 fzj80 - LAND CRUSHER

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                            #14
                            Someone has an issue, r3v helps, that same someone UPDATES wtf they did. Thank you OP.
                            No, thank YOU guys!

                            Quick Update II: for future guys who try this method, I've found that splitting the nut on just one side isn't sufficient (at least it wasn't for me). With a single split, I was hoping I could just hammer in a pickle fork between the lower subframe and ball-joint and the nut would give way, dropping the control arm. Not so.

                            I decided I needed to split the nut on a second side. It's tight, but there is a small space of clearance between the subframe and the steering rack to get in at another, second angle. I used a ratcheting box-end wrench (Gearwrench) to get in and tighten the splitter. Be prepared for serious elbow-grease to make this happen. After the second split, I was able to get off part of the nut - maybe 40% of the total circumference. But since my splits were not aligned directly across from one another, the remaining nut is not coming off.

                            I tried the pickle fork again. Still a no-go. I guess that half-nut still has some staying power. I can't split it again - no angles left. To break the rest of it off, I tried a cold chisel and hammer to no avail. However, I need to get a longer chisel that will give me a better angle. That *might* work. I wish I had an air hammer with a long chisel, because I think that would bust it loose pretty easy.

                            I'll keep you guys updated. Just be prepared to split the nut on both sides for it to come off.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              After I split a nut it will usually unscrew. Try unscrewing what is left of the nut.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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