broken motor mount tab

[chrisbmx68]

Hit my skidplate hard enough to brake the oil pan and sheer the passenger side motor mount bracket clean off the sub frame. Anyone ever tried to weld one back on with the sub frame still on the car? It looks like lowering it will make things significantly easier. I already have the reinforcement kit sitting in a box ready to go on.

[jlevie]

I don't think I'd bother to repair the subframe. A used part from a salvage yard would not be expensive.

[chrisbmx68]

would be a lot harder to replace, and take a lot more time though this is my dd. I have 90% of the parts needed for an m50 swap so I figured if this doesnt hold up I can replace the whole thing at that time.

[ForcedFirebird]

The subframe is not that difficult to change, just time consuming.

Support the engine from above, pop the ball joints out of the strut tube and the brakes don't even have to come off.

I wouldn't attempt welding with everything in the car.

[ttrousdell]

If youre confident in your welding skills id try and weld it. If you do it right you can make it just as stong as it was. It was said above but they are not a high demand part if you want to replace.

[jlevie]

I'd be a little concerned that a hit hard enough to break the motor mount bracket might have bent the subframe.

If you support the engine with an engine brace it takes little time to drop the subframe. Dismount the calipers, disconnect the steering shaft and PS lines, disconnect the upper strut mounts, disconnect the CABS, and drop the whole assembly.

[ak-]

Yes I've done it before at a shop with intent of swapping the subframe later on.
Only difference is I didn't break it clean off, just snapped the mount on it's base.
It broke where you would install AKG's reinforcement plates basically.
Mine was welded while on the car. Not sure how similar your situation was to mine.

[chrisbmx68]

Will try to snap some pics today, leaving work at 1 to try to repair this piece. I am thinking I will probably hold the motor up, and partially lower the sub frame to get in there better seemed to look nearly impossible to do adequately with everything 100% in place. This is the second motor and probably 5th oil pan that this car has been through so I would imagine this was just the final straw for that bracket. Will definitely source a less abused subframe when I do the m50 swap in the near future.

Amusingly I have the akg reinforcements sitting in a box, bought them on a whim figured it would be a good idea while I had the motor out.

[jlevie]

This is the second motor and probably 5th oil pan that this car has been through so I would imagine this was just the final straw for that bracket.

It might be time to consider getting the car a bit higher in the air (I assume it has been lowered).

[chrisbmx68]

Repair was a success. Far from my best/prettiest work but I was able to mig/tig the bracket back on with everything in place with much difficulty. (removed motor mount, and jacked motor up about 6 inches from the ac compressor) Upon removing the broken mounting ear/tab I discovered that the center was torn out! I used/sacrificed one of the akg reinforcement plates on it even though I will definitely be replacing this sub frame once the m42 comes out.

If I had taken it all the way out I could have done a far cleaner repair and used the tig for all the welds. It was just impossible to see what I was doing and fit the torch in some areas while also feeding filler with everything attached.

[ForcedFirebird]

I would have MIG'd it in the car. I know all too well about the TIG torch, even with the mini cap and cup, it's still difficult to get in tight spaces where the MIG can turn up the gas and hold further away.

[chrisbmx68]

Yeah I started off with tig, and was able to get the sides. But had to use the mig gun on the bottom inside and top portions.

[lbreevesii]

just my two cents, but with a cherry picker its stupid easy to pull the subframe with the motor still in the car. Just suspend the motor, drop the control arms(either from the rear bushing or from the subframe), unhook motor from subframe, Pull steering rack, remove 4 bolts holding subframe to car...done.

[chrisbmx68]

I don't own a cherry picker, and that's significantly more work than jacking up the motor and welding the tab back on. I didn't even have to drop my skid plate. I am looking for a replacement to have on hand however, so if someone has one please let me know.

[ForcedFirebird]

just my two cents, but with a cherry picker its stupid easy to pull the subframe with the motor still in the car. Just suspend the motor, drop the control arms(either from the rear bushing or from the subframe), unhook motor from subframe, Pull steering rack, remove 4 bolts holding subframe to car...done.

Actually just Wed we changed an oil pan gasket on an s52e30 and I didn't completely drop the subframe. Left the struts bolted, along with all the ball joints and rack, undid the CAB's and subframe bolts and let it hang after using an engine support on top. This gave about 6-8" of room on between the frame rails and subframe.