I've had all three types: One Vorschlag, one GC Touring, and three different sets of GC Race plates, both the early and modern versions.
The GC race plates ALL make noise - and all require regreasing/rebuilding if you daily the car. My experience is that even the new ones require this. They offer a range of spring hats, to work with various coil-over springs. Since those springs are small diameter, the plates are slotted to offer maximum camber adjustability, though the old generation had issues where the bolt heads would limit how much travel you could use (the hit the inside of the strut tower hole) Even with that limitation - I ran just over 5 degrees of negative camber with all my sets (this will depend on how low your front is).
The GC Touring Plates make no noise, and require no maintenance. Since they are designed to work with stock diameter springs (like your IE3s) they offer less adjustability - since the spring will contact the strut tower anyhow if you dial in too much camber. With H&R race and the touring plates, I was running about -3.5 degrees of camber. Yours will be similar with the IE3s.
The Vorschlag plates make much less noise than the GC race, and don't "pop, pop, pop" when you turn lock to lock on the street. They offer the same adjustability as the GC race plates, with no interference with the strut tower hole, AND work with even stock spring diameter, if you pop for the correct spring hats. HOWEVER, with stock diameter springs, you are still limited to about -3.5 degrees of camber, since the spring will hit the strut tower before you run out of plate adjustment.
Short version - if you are gonna stick with your IE3s - get the GC touring plate. Make sure you spec the right struts you are running, so they send you the correct bushing/bearings.
The GC race plates ALL make noise - and all require regreasing/rebuilding if you daily the car. My experience is that even the new ones require this. They offer a range of spring hats, to work with various coil-over springs. Since those springs are small diameter, the plates are slotted to offer maximum camber adjustability, though the old generation had issues where the bolt heads would limit how much travel you could use (the hit the inside of the strut tower hole) Even with that limitation - I ran just over 5 degrees of negative camber with all my sets (this will depend on how low your front is).
The GC Touring Plates make no noise, and require no maintenance. Since they are designed to work with stock diameter springs (like your IE3s) they offer less adjustability - since the spring will contact the strut tower anyhow if you dial in too much camber. With H&R race and the touring plates, I was running about -3.5 degrees of camber. Yours will be similar with the IE3s.
The Vorschlag plates make much less noise than the GC race, and don't "pop, pop, pop" when you turn lock to lock on the street. They offer the same adjustability as the GC race plates, with no interference with the strut tower hole, AND work with even stock spring diameter, if you pop for the correct spring hats. HOWEVER, with stock diameter springs, you are still limited to about -3.5 degrees of camber, since the spring will hit the strut tower before you run out of plate adjustment.
Short version - if you are gonna stick with your IE3s - get the GC touring plate. Make sure you spec the right struts you are running, so they send you the correct bushing/bearings.




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