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    can't find rear subframe DYI

    I admit defeat, I have searched several different ways, and still can not find a DIY write up on Dropping the rear sub-frame in an e30.

    I swear to god, I have seen this process 100 times, I even thought it was a sticky.

    I am sure someone can show me how retarded I am by finding it in 2 seconds...

    I am doing a brake re-fresh and hard-lines, soft-lines, and bushings, and possibly scrapping my whole e30 if the rust is too bad (I hope that is a joke)

    thanks in advance guys...
    Originally Posted by ACMF74
    i clicked on this cuz i saw p3nis

    #2
    i did mine a couple months ago. if your bushings have never been replaced in the history of the car your in for a treat as i was. i had to end up torching my bushings till my subframe popped out. i started to take off the brakes, trailing arms, axles, and diff till i got to just the subframe. i spent an hour of trying to pry to no avail. so they i whipped out the blow torch and starting torching the bushings. i torched them till they caught fire, then blew it out, repeated till they melted out. pm me and ill try to help you as best as possible
    Originally posted by evandael
    a car is a car. call it a dildo, i'd still drive the hell out of it.

    Comment


      #3
      There is really not much to dropping the rear subframe. Remove the rear rotors, disassemble the parking brakes to disconnect the cables and pull them out of the hubs. Disconnect the brake lines at the tee, the drive shaft, the shocks and the electricals. Put a floor jack or better yet a transmission jack under the differential and remove the subframe bushing nuts and plates. Use a big hammer to drive the bushing bolts back up into the body. Then lower the assembly.

      The inner aluminum sleeves of the bushings may be stuck in the body. If you are lucky prying may get them loose. If not you may have to thread a long lag bolt in and drive them out from the top or use a heavy slide hammer.

      Installation is the reverse.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment


        #4
        Thank you very much Gentlemen, your input is greatly appreciated.

        I suspect I am in for a really grand time judging by the looks of the underside. I will just be happy if the rear sub-frame mounting area of my car does not completely disintegrate.
        thanks again guys
        Originally Posted by ACMF74
        i clicked on this cuz i saw p3nis

        Comment


          #5
          Just completed removing mine due to a very necessary brake line swap.

          4 very slow and patient hours later and its out and pressure washed. Probably could have gotten it done faster, but I'm still getting used to the common socket and wrench sizes, so a lot of up and down.

          Just spent a whole bunch of money with Levent for bushings and a lot of other odds and ends, including a Scorpion exhaust since mine had a tiny rust hole and I could now justify the expense!
          1990 325is - sterling silver, very nice, maybe for sale

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            There is really not much to dropping the rear subframe. Remove the rear rotors, disassemble the parking brakes to disconnect the cables and pull them out of the hubs. Disconnect the brake lines at the tee, the drive shaft, the shocks and the electricals. Put a floor jack or better yet a transmission jack under the differential and remove the subframe bushing nuts and plates. Use a big hammer to drive the bushing bolts back up into the body. Then lower the assembly.

            The inner aluminum sleeves of the bushings may be stuck in the body. If you are lucky prying may get them loose. If not you may have to thread a long lag bolt in and drive them out from the top or use a heavy slide hammer.

            Installation is the reverse.
            Damn jlevie, you don't know about the parking brake trick?

            So do everything he said, but DO NOT disassemble the rear rotors and parking brakes, just simply disconnect the lines at the lever and pull them out the back.
            sigpic

            A man chooses, a slave obeys... Would you kindly?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by pantelones View Post
              Damn jlevie, you don't know about the parking brake trick?

              So do everything he said, but DO NOT disassemble the rear rotors and parking brakes, just simply disconnect the lines at the lever and pull them out the back.
              I know about that, but I've seen the sleeves seized into body more times than seized into the hubs. But you are correct in that you can do it that way.

              Most of the time if I drop the subframe it is getting rebuilt, which means new rear wheel bearings, half shaft boots, bushings, etc. So it will all be stripped down for painting and the parking brake stuff has to come off anyway.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                I know about that, but I've seen the sleeves seized into body more times than seized into the hubs. But you are correct in that you can do it that way.

                Most of the time if I drop the subframe it is getting rebuilt, which means new rear wheel bearings, half shaft boots, bushings, etc. So it will all be stripped down for painting and the parking brake stuff has to come off anyway.
                In this case I will pretty much have it out and replace everything there is to replace in the back of the car. I have little reason to think anything has been replaced in the past.
                It maybe out for a while as I do not have ton of discretionary income that is budgeted for "toy" repairs.
                Originally Posted by ACMF74
                i clicked on this cuz i saw p3nis

                Comment

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