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Stuck rear rotor bolt

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    Stuck rear rotor bolt

    Well I was afraid this was going to happen, but of course on my last corner I get stuck by a stripped head on the rear rotor bolt. I cut a slot in it to try and turn with a flat head and no luck (with heat). I tried drilling it out some and using a bolt extrator and it just broke off inside there. I think I may have to break out the angle grinder and destroy the rotor (Which is fine, I have a new one anyways) and get that head off the bolt so I can take the rotor off. Then I will probably have to carefully drill out the remains and tap the threads back. :-?

    Thoughts?

    #2
    Try using a center punch to tap it out. Hit the punch straight on near the edge of the bolt head so you have a dent, then angle the punch and try and tap the bolt counterclockwise to unscrew it. This technique has saved me several times.

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      #3
      Using a solid carbide left hand twist drill bit that is just a touch larger than the body diameter of the screw, drill off the head of the screw. The rotor will then come off and there'll be enough of the screw left to grab with vice grips. If it still doesn't want to come out use at torch to heat area up to the point that oil will smoke. Dowse the screw with PBlaster or Kroil and try again. Repeat until it comes out.

      The carbide drill is needed because the broken part of the extractor is harder than an ordinary drill. And it should be a left twist so it won't tighten the screw any further. A lot of time the broken fastener will back out while you drilling it.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        Easy-out, just don't drill the head off enough to have it come off without the shank
        Originally posted by priapism
        My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
        Originally posted by shameson
        Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          Using a solid carbide left hand twist drill bit that is just a touch larger than the body diameter of the screw, drill off the head of the screw. The rotor will then come off and there'll be enough of the screw left to grab with vice grips. If it still doesn't want to come out use at torch to heat area up to the point that oil will smoke. Dowse the screw with PBlaster or Kroil and try again. Repeat until it comes out.

          The carbide drill is needed because the broken part of the extractor is harder than an ordinary drill. And it should be a left twist so it won't tighten the screw any further. A lot of time the broken fastener will back out while you drilling it.
          Couldnt I just use an angle grinder to remove the material on the head until I get the rotor off? Obviously some material will come off the rotor but technically its the same concept, and dont care about the rotor.

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            #6
            That would work.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              Just demolish the screw head if you already have a new rotor. Once the head is gone you can yank out the shaft with vice grips
              sigpic
              Parts Wanted
              The Never-ending Resto Mod

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                #8
                Originally posted by blocke View Post
                yank out the shaft with vice grips
                usually always easier said then done. I had a shank left on my fronts and it didnt budge at all, even tried welding a nut to it and it just sheared the bolt even more:down:. We will see how it goes tomorrow.

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