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Adjusting rear camber for lowering E30.

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    Adjusting rear camber for lowering E30.

    Athough the rear susp. is considered not adjustable it is relatively simple to change it to compensate for lowering the rear. The camber and toe info is from: http://e30m3performance.com/tech_art...rves/index.htm
    A 1" drop adds .875 degree N. camber. A 2" drop adds 1.75 deg N. camber. To correct for a 1" drop requires the rear trailing arm to have its mounts moved 1/4". The outer down or inner up or both to move in the those directions 1/8". For a 2" drop it is 1/2" or 1/4" split between the inner and outer.
    For the trouble of installing BMW offset bushings or the IE kit, you can slot the mount holes and spot weld reinforcing washers or drilled plates at minimal cost. $100 for 4 BMW Bushings or $150 for 2 IE kits.
    This requires dropping the subframe for access to the holes with a die grinder. One side at a time should work.
    This approach is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced and requires access to air tools and a mig welder.

    #2
    I got RTRS bushings. It was an easy route.

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      #3
      Originally posted by rwh11385
      I got RTRS bushings. It was an easy route.
      english, spanish pls? I'm such noob that don't know shit, pleas explain if you can.
      Euro M3'87 NogaroSilver/Euro E34 M5 '93/Porsche 993 TT 97' Euro/Porsche 993 Carrera 95' Euro/Skyline R33 GT-R

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        #4
        1.75* of neg camber is GOOD, you don't want to correct that out!

        RISING EDGE

        Let's drive fast and have fun.

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          #5
          Camber increase.

          I was referring to the 1.75" of negative camber from a 2" drop that is in addition to the original camber at stock height. 3.5 can be too much of good thing. The post was primarily aimed at the process opf changing the settings with minimal or no cash outlay. The process could just as easily be reversed so that an E30 lowered 2" with a total of 3.25* camber could be increased to 5* neg camber.
          Last edited by 1991 318is; 01-13-2006, 11:11 PM.

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            #6
            So your saying you just want to do your own version of the IE kit?

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              #7
              Originally posted by 1991 318is
              I was referring to the 1.75" of negative camber from a 2" drop that is in addition to the original camber at stock height. 3.5 can be too much of good thing. The post was primarily aimed at the process opf changing the settings with minimal or no cash outlay. The process could just as easily be reversed so that an E30 lowered 2" with a total of 3.25* camber could be increased to 5* neg camber.
              How much camber is stock? It's very minimal, I know that.

              RISING EDGE

              Let's drive fast and have fun.

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                #8
                Originally posted by 808BMW
                So your saying you just want to do your own version of the IE kit?
                I wouldn't want to duplicate the IE kit just for the hell of it. It's $150.00 and dropping the crossmember to just install it and requires cutting tools and a welder. The E30 suspension is not adjustable to start with. The key element of the post was determination of the relationship between movement of the pickup points and the change in settings. I was referring to moving the pickup points a predetermined amount and aimed the post at those who know what's involved and are comfortable doing it themselves. So yes, that's my version of the Ireland Engineering kit($150), K-mac adjusters($250), BMW offset bushings($100), and maybe a few others that I am unaware of.
                If you would need to have any of those put in by someone else, it's would be better to use the pre-made parts as they come with instructions for the installer.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1991 318is
                  The key element of the post was determination of the relationship between movement of the pickup points and the change in settings. I was referring to moving the pickup points a predetermined amount and aimed the post at those who know what's involved and are comfortable doing it themselves.
                  i have not tried this.....this is hear-say.....but it does make sence.....

                  flip the subframe bushings around. this will pull the subframe up 1/4-1/2" (depending on bushing used and you will need to rework the diff mounting bolt hole). with control arm mounting points moved up, camber is decreased based on swing curve.

                  personally i used the ie weld in kit. love it.

                  cheers, jason

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                    #10
                    hmmm, i'm going the Bilstein sport and H&R Sport swap. Is there anything i should know about and go about changing during and after it?

                    '05 Jetta TDI
                    '87 325iS: Facelift, Hella Smoked Ellipsoids (RIP)
                    '80 320i: 500lbs lighter, Rally/Drifter (SOLD!:( )
                    '90 Jetta: Stock Daily Driver (SOLD)

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                      #11
                      Are you sure the mounts would have to be moved that much? It seems like a lot. I dont think that would be a very good way to do it because it would be impossible to get it exact or equal on both sides. the toe is the real problem anyways

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                        #12
                        Well, a 2" drop is too much for the design of the stock suspension anyway. And as someone already said, 1.75* isn't really anything to shit yourself over, and 1* definitely isn't.

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                          #13
                          I dont know what stock camber is but I am lowered on IEs and have around 2.3 negative in the back. I was going to weld in taller mounts for adjustment, but I think I am just going to get some new bushings, possibly eccentric units for the mroadster.
                          Old and improved:

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