what do i do now...

[dougie30]

Yea I tried to keep it straight but the extractor forced the bit to move to the right because of was harder metal. I will be back at it again tomorrow with a lot of penetrating oil and a large left hand bit, which ace hardware didn't even have! They only had the extractors. So I will try home depot

[jeffnhiscars]

Yea I tried to keep it straight but the extractor forced the bit to move to the right because of was harder metal. I will be back at it again tomorrow with a lot of penetrating oil and a large left hand bit, which ace hardware didn't even have! They only had the extractors. So I will try home depot

I doubt that HD would have that but would wager that Grainger does. Check their online catalogue then call to confirm they have it in stock. I also like Jims suggestion to use the sub frame as a bit guide just to get the hole started

[dougie30]

I got the bolt out!!!!!!

I used a round solid carbide saw blade on a 10" hack saw to cut through the thick side of the bolt. After I cut through it I just used a hammer and nail to just tap the pieces out.

But I already ran onto a new problem...when I drilled the hole, the extractor bit forced my new drill bit to move to the right side, so the bolt looked like a crescent moon, and I didn't realize I was drilling into the threads.... So now I'm hoping to be able to get a tap in there to chase the remaining threads.

[LJ851]

Good news! If you didn't remove too much of the original threads it should still hold the torque it needs to. If it cant then Timesert it.

[dougie30]

What is timesert?

[dude8383]

Dude man:

https://encrypted.google.com/search?oq=timesert&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=timesert

[dougie30]

Those are pretty cool, I may try that but I heard a little bit of job weld on the area without threads would work because I can re tap the hole , any thoughts on this?

[jlevie]

Those are pretty cool, I may try that but I heard a little bit of job weld on the area without threads would work because I can re tap the hole , any thoughts on this?

Not gonna work. If you damaged part of the threads, a Timesert or Helicoil is the only fix. A Timesert is better.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Not gonna work. If you damaged part of the threads, a Timesert or Helicoil is the only fix. A Timesert is better.

+ 1 on the Timesert, can't be beat.

I would think weld would be a little too hard to tap.

[LJ851]

Those are pretty cool, I may try that but I heard a little bit of job weld on the area without threads would work because I can re tap the hole , any thoughts on this?

This is not the right solution. However, if you did not remove much of the threads it may still be usable. If you still have 80% or more of the original threaded hole it may be enough.

Can you post a quality pic of the area where the drill bit ate the threads?

[dougie30]

This is not the right solution. However, if you did not remove much of the threads it may still be usable. If you still have 80% or more of the original threaded hole it may be enough.

Can you post a quality pic of the area where the drill bit ate the threads?

I don't have a good pic right now, but yes I would say about 80-85% of the threads are still there, and the only reason I'm hesitant on the timesert is because
1) I would have to order it online because there isn't a distributor around
2) I'm broke! I already spent about 40$ on getting this one bolt out!
3) I would be working upside down for all of this and I have never tapped a hole so I wouldn't want to mess it up big time :/

[jlevie]

I don't have a good pic right now, but yes I would say about 80-85% of the threads are still there, and the only reason I'm hesitant on the timesert is because
1) I would have to order it online because there isn't a distributor around
2) I'm broke! I already spent about 40$ on getting this one bolt out!
3) I would be working upside down for all of this and I have never tapped a hole so I wouldn't want to mess it up big time :/

Which is why you should have flat bedded the car to a shop and let a pro deal with it before using an easy-out. And certainly after the easy-out broke.

The bolts that hold the subframe in are rather critical. This is not something to mess around with. It needs to be done right and that means a Timesert, or at least a Helicoil. The major expense for either of those is the tooling, which a good shop will already have.

[FredK]

Isn't the subframe held in by a tab base weld nut? I am like 99% certain it is, and it's geometry is strikingly similar to the tab base weld nuts that secure the front bolts of the seat rails to the chassis. As such I seriously doubt there is sufficient material to use a heli-coil.

You can see the subframe bolt weld nut on the frame rail. You can also hit that side with a penetrant (for people in the future who are having troubles with the front subframe bolt).

[LJ851]

Heres what i would do if i had no money:

Install the subframe, torque the other three subframe bolts to spec and put red loctite on the new replacement bolt (and damaged hole) and torque to spec. If it holds you are done and if it strips go to plan B of a thread insert.

[dougie30]

Which is why you should have flat bedded the car to a shop and let a pro deal with it before using an easy-out. And certainly after the easy-out broke.

The bolts that hold the subframe in are rather critical. This is not something to mess around with. It needs to be done right and that means a Timesert, or at least a Helicoil. The major expense for either of those is the tooling, which a good shop will already have.

I understand I should probably do this but I'm a poor college kid and have no money.

If my first idea fails I will invest in a timesert kit and have my step dad install it because he has had to do things like this before.