Subframe removal with driveshaft in place

[J3M93]

I didn't remove the driveshaft because i only had 2 safety stands to work with, so access to the gearbox end was tight and also because my cat was badly rusted to the manifold (I had to saw though the bolts on the flange connecting the cat to the muffller and they were less rusted)

In other news, fuck yeah

Ended up only needing to remove the bolts from the heatshield above the cat which allowed my driveshaft to drop down enough so that i could slide one end out by pushing the opposite end as far as i could into the wheel well, thanks for all the tips guys!

[Northern]

I think I did the ultimate version of that. I left the trailing arms attached to my iX, because I'm scared of how rusty the ebrake hardware would be, and I wouldn't have been able to bleed the rear brakes afterward because the bleeder screws were sheared off.

Was way harder to change the bushings, plus, I have to bleed the brakes anyways.

[Holland]

Why not just pull the driveshaft? It's 5 bolts.

You know, I always tried to fix shit with removing as little as possible, but then realized the extra 5 mins it takes to remove stuff like the driveshaft saves 30 to 40 minutes of fighting and swearing.

[Northern]

I've managed to wiggle it enough on the iS and ix that it came out, I collapsed the ds on the ix and I think that helped a little.

[AndrewBird]

Why not just pull the driveshaft? It's 5 bolts.

[jlevie]

The rear cross member is roughly half way between the center support bearing and the rear subframe.

[J3M93]

Remove the heat shields and the crossmember aft of the CSB. Then lower the subframe until it clears the body and pull it back.

Do you have any diagrams of where that crossmember is? Do you know if it is further back than the cat? I've removed the last heat shield but my cat is rusted to the manifold and i dont see how i can get that out at this point.

[jlevie]

Attach your rear shocks and place your jack under the rear subframe where the drive shaft ends. Having the shocks attached keeps the subframe from flipping over and allows it to move around alot. You will need to walk the ends of the subframe out one at a time. Pull one end down and over until it clears then the other side. The jack in the center will need to be lowered for maximum movement of the subframe to get it out with the driveshaft installed. I have done this over five times and it will work. Once it is clear, lower the jack supporting the subframe and remove the lower shock bolts.

That helps, but leaving the differential attached to the subframe works even better. In that scenario the balance point of the assembly is well forward on differential. I use a transmission jack. but a floor jack will work.

[KMOSES]

Attach your rear shocks and place your jack under the rear subframe where the drive shaft ends. Having the shocks attached keeps the subframe from flipping over and allows it to move around alot. You will need to walk the ends of the subframe out one at a time. Pull one end down and over until it clears then the other side. The jack in the center will need to be lowered for maximum movement of the subframe to get it out with the driveshaft installed. I have done this over five times and it will work. Once it is clear, lower the jack supporting the subframe and remove the lower shock bolts.

Good luck!

[e30Rooster]

Disconnect your e brake lines too.

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[jlevie]

Remove the heat shields and the crossmember aft of the CSB. Then lower the subframe until it clears the body and pull it back.

[J3M93]

So i was wondering how eveyone was doing this without removing the driveshaft?

I've removed the subframe bolts and everything holding the subframe to the car but i just can't get it to drop out because of the driveshaft and the inner wheel wells, i've attached some pics for reference