Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

stripped rotor bolt

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    stripped rotor bolt

    In trying to get the rotor off my car, I found that it is somewhat rusted into place, over torqued, and stripped. I tried undoing it but stripped it further so I tried slotting it with a dremel and using a flathead screwdriver but I don't have any wide enough. The rotor needs to be replaced so I'm not worried about messing it up.

    What should I do? Go see if Wal-mart has that drill bit thing for stripped screws?

    Thanks,
    Peter

    #2
    either that or drill it out

    Comment


      #3
      Just drill it out

      Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
      -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

      Comment


        #4
        ......Walmart?


        Try a hardware or auto parts store before spending any money on tools from walmart.
        sigpic

        Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication

        1988 325is - TrackRat in progress

        Instagram @rebellionforge

        Comment


          #5
          Use a drill slightly larger than the body size of the screw to drill the head off. That lets you get the rotor off and leaves enough of the remains to grab with vice grips. Soaking the screw with PBlaster fo a day or so will help in removal. Use anti-sieze on the new screw.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment


            #6
            Also of note, that little screw is a convenience. It does not keep the rotors in place during operation, the wheel lugs do that.
            -------------------------------------------------
            1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
            2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

            sigpic

            I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by travish325 View Post
              either that or drill it out
              Originally posted by FLG View Post
              Just drill it out

              Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
              Originally posted by jlevie View Post
              Use a drill slightly larger than the body size of the screw to drill the head off. That lets you get the rotor off and leaves enough of the remains to grab with vice grips. Soaking the screw with PBlaster fo a day or so will help in removal. Use anti-sieze on the new screw.
              Lol

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Earendil View Post
                Also of note, that little screw is a convenience. It does not keep the rotors in place during operation, the wheel lugs do that.
                Yep but if your not running studs you'll appreciate that convenience lol

                Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
                -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

                Comment


                  #9
                  using a centre punch usually works to undo it that little bit, hitting it on a angle on the outer section

                  Comment


                    #10
                    When rusted in, I often will hammer a larger Torx into it and use a small battery impact to pull them - if that fails, use Jim's advice.

                    Originally posted by Earendil View Post
                    Also of note, that little screw is a convenience. It does not keep the rotors in place during operation, the wheel lugs do that.
                    I keep them in stock, just for when customers like you come in. I hate trying to line up the rotor/wheel when using the OEM lug bolts. They are less than $2 each - you guys can't really be that cheap.
                    john@m20guru.com
                    Links:
                    Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks everyone for the advice. I won't be able to do anything until Friday due to school, but I liberally applied PB Blaster and will do so again tomorrow night and try drilling it out Friday.

                      Only reason I said Wal-mart is because I live across the street from one. I don't do my tool shopping there, don't worry... I usually get stuff from Ace but went to Harbor Freight for the first time today to get a ball joint separator. Worked amazingly but startled me the first time with the loud pop when it came undone.

                      Peter

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by asdfg68plus1 View Post
                        Worked amazingly but startled me the first time with the loud pop when it came undone.
                        That's got to be one of the best shade tree mechanic moments, especially when working solo:

                        "#%^*!!! Was it supposed to do that?!?!"
                        -------------------------------------------------
                        1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
                        2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

                        sigpic

                        I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                          When rusted in, I often will hammer a larger Torx into it and use a small battery impact to pull them - if that fails, use Jim's advice.



                          I keep them in stock, just for when customers like you come in. I hate trying to line up the rotor/wheel when using the OEM lug bolts. They are less than $2 each - you guys can't really be that cheap.
                          I don't think he's advocating not using them, just putting it out there. The reason they are there is so that the holes in the rotor remain lined up with the holes in the hub.
                          For all things 24v, check out Markert Motorworks!
                          Originally posted by mbonanni
                          I hate modded emtree, I hate modded cawrz, I hate jdm, I hate swag, I hate stanceyolokids, I hate bags (on cars), I hate stuff that is slowz, I hate tires.

                          I am a pursit now.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                            I keep them in stock, just for when customers like you come in. I hate trying to line up the rotor/wheel when using the OEM lug bolts. They are less than $2 each - you guys can't really be that cheap.

                            Can't be that cheap? Are you new here? :D

                            But in all seriousness, my point was that the OP shouldn't worry about damaging it. He can bugger the thing up, and be okay driving to pick up the part, or waiting 3-5 days to have a new one shipped.

                            That said, I do not have them on the back of my car for two reasons:
                            1) The E-Brake holds the rotors on just fine.
                            2) I'm a forgetful sob.
                            -------------------------------------------------
                            1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
                            2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

                            sigpic

                            I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Earendil View Post
                              Can't be that cheap? Are you new here? :D

                              But in all seriousness, my point was that the OP shouldn't worry about damaging it. He can bugger the thing up, and be okay driving to pick up the part, or waiting 3-5 days to have a new one shipped.

                              That said, I do not have them on the back of my car for two reasons:
                              1) The E-Brake holds the rotors on just fine.
                              2) I'm a forgetful sob.

                              Yup, just signed up ;)

                              Still, it's a peeve of mine, therefore, there's a bag of part number 34111123072 in my drawer ROFL.

                              Yes, I own an e30, therefore, my track wheels are XXR :D
                              john@m20guru.com
                              Links:
                              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X