Subframe stuck

[Xaq]

I had the very end of the inner sleeve break off in the body, ended up drilling and chiseling it out in pieces.

[Cletonius]

The left side is still stuck in the body, we cut it with a sawzall and removed the subframe without it.

We've been prying on it and using penetrating oil and the thing is still stuck. I don't want to torch because its next to the fuel tank.

Any suggestions?

[mr ilia]

Here's how I do it:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...1&postcount=87

This has worked for me very well. Try this first. Use 5/8 lagbolt, just scew this in and hit it with the ling bot or 3/8 wrench extention and the subframe will pop out.
Mine did, and I'm in the rust belt and was on the original bushings.

[Cletonius]

Thanks. The bolts popped out with one hit.

I got some lag bolts to thread into the aluminium. Gonna try that and the prying.

[jlevie]

If you have driven the subframe bolts up and out of the bushings the only thing left that will hold the subframe up are the inner sleeves of the subframe bushings. Try a prybar on each side to pull the sleeves out of the body.

[FredK]

Here's how I do it:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=955671&postcount=87

[Cletonius]

Car is a 01/90 325.

I havr the differential and subframe bolts are all removed. The diff will move downward but the subframe is stuck somehow. The bolts are completely out, but it just rocks like they're still connected. Is there anything underneath that I could damage by pulling down on the trailing arms? Is there anything that sticks down once the bolts are removed?

I thought the thing would drop down once those bolts were out? All the diy I read have the bolts get stuck. Mine weren't stuck at all, they popped free easily and weren't corroded. They had the glue on top inside the car so I assume they were original.