SS lines kit recommendatiosn?

[Grand525]

OEM rubber stuff is getting to be more expensive than several SS options out there (quite a few on ebay).

Can anyone recommend a good kit that you've worked with / used? If it's more expensive than OEM then I'll just go OEM.

Thanks!

Goodridge.net

[Cletonius]

I've never heard of anyone saying that pulling the subframe was easy before :)

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try it with everything bolted to the car still. I've been under the car a few times and there's no rust on most of that stuff (FL car).

I didn't say pulling the subframe was easy. I said it's easy to service once it's out. ;)

If you're servicing the majority of the rear suspension it's easier to pull everything as a unit and disassemble on the bench. For just a line upgrade you'll be fine leaving everything in there. The fittings where the hard lines on the body meet the soft lines are pretty accessible. Might consider using some kroil or pb on them ahead of time.

[Cephas]

It was really easy, I pulled the subframe assembly for bushing replacement and did the lines at the same time.

I had a couple drips so I had to go back in there to tighten things up; it wasn't difficult. All of my hardlines were rotted so I had to do everything, but every rear line required a torch to get them undone. I wouldn't attempt this with the fuel tank and suspension in place. If you've got corrosion I'd recommend pulling at least the trailing arms to make things easier.

I've never heard of anyone saying that pulling the subframe was easy before :)

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try it with everything bolted to the car still. I've been under the car a few times and there's no rust on most of that stuff (FL car).

[george graves]

I got mine from Blunt - very happy with them.

[Cletonius]

Sucks, but yes - the SS lines should be replaced much sooner than the stock rubber.

How easy was it to replace the trailing arm lines? I've been researching and it seems like it's a fkn PITA. Any tips?

It was really easy, I pulled the subframe assembly for bushing replacement and did the lines at the same time.

I had a couple drips so I had to go back in there to tighten things up; it wasn't difficult. All of my hardlines were rotted so I had to do everything, but every rear line required a torch to get them undone. I wouldn't attempt this with the fuel tank and suspension in place. If you've got corrosion I'd recommend pulling at least the trailing arms to make things easier.

[Cephas]

Interesting stuff. I had assumed the ss lines were similarly crimped like OE style. I guess I'll be swapping back to OE in 2-3 years. :(

I *almost* went with OE over the SS ones too, was a mouse click difference.

Sucks, but yes - the SS lines should be replaced much sooner than the stock rubber.

How easy was it to replace the trailing arm lines? I've been researching and it seems like it's a fkn PITA. Any tips?

[Cletonius]

From what I've been able to gather, the fittings aren't crimped on, so they're more likely to (and there have been cases where this has happened) disconnect from the hose itself under high temps.

See jlevie's response here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=254443

Interesting stuff. I had assumed the ss lines were similarly crimped like OE style. I guess I'll be swapping back to OE in 2-3 years. :(

I *almost* went with OE over the SS ones too, was a mouse click difference.

[Cephas]

Any reason in particular?

I only ask because I just put a set on my car. Was nice to be able to just cut the old ones, most took a torch to unscrew.

From what I've been able to gather, the fittings aren't crimped on, so they're more likely to (and there have been cases where this has happened) disconnect from the hose itself under high temps.

See jlevie's response here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=254443

[Roysneon]

I bought the set Blunttech sells. I didn't ask too many specifics about them though as I trust Blunt enough that he won't sell junk. Haven't installed them yet but they look very good, rubber coated as well for some cosmetic protection. About $100 seems to be the going rate for good ss brake hoses.

All that being said, I'd rather use good brand OEM rubber replacements than cheap China made eBay stainless hoses.

[RobertC]

Cant give any specific recommendations for different vendors but I do have quite abit of experience with both the rubber and stainless lines.

I have used UUC, Turner, Pelican, SSF, Korman, Goodrich, etc to purchase stainless lines.

Stainless lines will stiffen up the brake pedal and provide better brake response. But this still depends on the integrity of the overall brake system.

Couple Notes:
Stainless lines should replaced every 3-5 years, its a general rule of thumb.
(I have replaced a set where a stainless brake line burst, had about 3 years on them, from a popular vendor in California.)
When purchasing stock rubber brake lines, use only OEM or Genuine BMW parts. Alot of parts are filtering in from China, no offense in general but the quality is proven to be sketchy at best.

If purchasing a stainless set, get them from a well known and proven vendor. Brake lines are not something you want to look for the best deal on. Spend the money and purchase a proven set of brake lines from a quality vendor.

That is all..

[Bimmian89]

Pelican has the 6 line kit for 99$ thats what I have.

[Cletonius]

Not from what I've heard. I've had the racing guys tell me to stay away from them.

Any reason in particular?

I only ask because I just put a set on my car. Was nice to be able to just cut the old ones, most took a torch to unscrew.

[Cephas]

are ss lines any better than new rubbers?

Not from what I've heard. I've had the racing guys tell me to stay away from them.

[digger]

are ss lines any better than new rubbers?

[flash 23]

IE and blunttech FTW

shameless plug... i do have a brand new SS clutch line for sale