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    Vibration right rear under load

    Beware: long fragmented post ahead. I tried to describe everything I thought important.

    I just installed a GC kit and all urethane bushings on my car, now I've got this vibration from the right rear. I think I may have had it before but with 200k mile rubber bushings, I probably wasn't feeling it. My tires were well out of balance and the car rode smooth, not so much with the urethane bushings installed.

    Anyways... I checked all fasteners over the weekend and found that my subframe bolts had loosened. I retorqued the entire rear suspension.

    We replaced the CSB, but we marked the DS and made sure it went back together as it should've. We even found old scribe marks that matched up.

    That brings me to where I am now. I have a vibration right rear under load that gets noticeable at 40mph. Under hard throttle the vibration increases. In neutral it almost goes away. I can accelerate slowly without getting the vibration and cannot feel the vibration at all below 35mph.

    I read that this may be related to my diff, I did run for about 6k with used up friction modifier....

    One last thing, it seems as though whenever the rear gets loose, it wants to slide to the right. The car doesn't pull at all, but maybe my right trailing arm is somehow tweaked? I'm thinking I may take it for an alignment check.

    Suggestions?
    - Josh
    1990 325is

    Need a shift boot?
    Looking to buy shift boot frames, PM if you have one to sell

    Here's what happens when you let the internet pick your license plate

    #2
    If the rubber mount of the previous CSB had failed, there's a good chance that what you are experiencing now is what caused the previous CSB to fail. Namely binding u-joints in the drive shaft. Other than the wheel/tires the other possibility would be wheel bearings or half shafts.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      CSB was destroyed, but my transmission crossmember wasn't bolted up so everything was all flopping around down there. I had considerable clunking when shifting and on/off throttle. No clunking now for the most part, just the occasional gear noise/clunk from the diff.

      I found a receipt in the car for a CSB and guibo about 10k miles before I got the car, so maybe 30k miles since replacement. The guibo is still good and I have an extra OEM one just in case.
      - Josh
      1990 325is

      Need a shift boot?
      Looking to buy shift boot frames, PM if you have one to sell

      Here's what happens when you let the internet pick your license plate

      Comment


        #4
        How can I check for u-joint binding? They were pretty loose (flopped around easily) when the DS was out.

        Replace the DS or can I bring it to a driveline shop and have them replace the joints?

        Edit: I don't hear the typical "wub-wub" of bad bearings either, ride is quiet for the most part. Stethoscope time?
        - Josh
        1990 325is

        Need a shift boot?
        Looking to buy shift boot frames, PM if you have one to sell

        Here's what happens when you let the internet pick your license plate

        Comment

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