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e30 lower control arms issues

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    e30 lower control arms issues

    Hey guys, attempting to remove ans replace the lower control arms on my '89 325i coupe. Got the strut balljoint out on either side easily and the two bolts securing the bushing brackets to the frame out easily as well, but then came as you all.must know the infamous 22mm nut on top of the subframe securing the middle balljoint.
    Even with removing the entire away bar I still did not have enough room to get any leverage on the nut with a wrench. Attempted to drop the subframe as far as I could without damaging any of the steering components attached to it (two of the long bolts connecting the subframe to the steering.rack will not come out) and was able to get a socket with a long extension and universal onto the 22mm nut on each side from above. Hit both repeatedly with pb blaster and then with a snap-on impact gun and neither nut will even budge. No idea what to do from here, I don't have a torch and I don't have any way to get a larger capacity compressor or one that will. Be able to fully realize the full potential of my gun and since the car is apart on jacksyands in my driveway, can't take it to a shop anywhere. Help!
    "Once more into the fray."
    sigpic

    #2
    Try a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, a nut splitter will.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      Originally posted by jlevie View Post
      Try a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, a nut splitter will.
      Not sure if I can get a breaker bar in there. What's a nut splitter and where.would I get one?
      "Once more into the fray."
      sigpic

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        #4
        Nut splitters can sometimes be found at the auto parts store. SawsAll or hacksaw or angle grinder?
        Originally posted by Andy.B
        Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
        1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
        ~~~~~~~~~~
        I was born on 3/25…
        ~~~~~~~~~~

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          #5
          If you cannot get it from the top with swivels/extensions....get it from the bottom with TWO box wrenches. Use the 2nd wrench for added leverage.
          "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

          85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
          91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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            #6
            If the nut is 'frozen' you may be spinning the shaft in the ball joint. This can happen using impact or hand wrench. Put a jack w/ wood block , under the ball joint to apply some load under the ball joint.
            GL We've all been there !
            My CA legal M60 swap

            The happening in our garage

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              #7
              ^what he said, worked for me
              2008 335i - n54b30
              1991 318i - m52b28
              1994 fzj80 - LAND CRUSHER

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                #8
                Did you get those bolts off Alfredo? I need to do mine soon and am learning as many tricks as possible beforehand.
                1988 Alpineweiß 325iC
                2003 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by boy412 View Post
                  Did you get those bolts off Alfredo? I need to do mine soon and am learning as many tricks as possible beforehand.
                  I did yes, PB blastered em for a couple days then dropped the subframe down far enough to get my impact gun on the driver side nut, had to use the double open end wrench technique to get the passenger side one off.
                  "Once more into the fray."
                  sigpic

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