I thought I'd share my experience when I replaced my subframe bushings, rtabs, and diff carrier bushing with AKG polyurethane bushings. I had originally bought all OE rubber bushings from Lemfoerder and the diff bushing was OE from Corteco, who is an OEM supplier for BMW. But I was talked into the AKG polys by a tech at BMW of Austin who was going to help me put them in. I ended up getting 85A polys for the subframe and diff, and I got 75D rtabs. As it turned out, for various reasons, the dealership ended up putting them in for free. (Yes, there is a story there.) I picked up the car from the dealer about 3 days before we left for the e30 Picnic in June. And the rtabs squeaked like hell. If you were at the picnic, you probably heard us drive in...and knew right away what was causing all the noise.
So I ended up dropping the rear subframe yesterday and put it back today. What I found was no grease whatsoever in the grease grooves of the rtabs. I kinda already knew that, but I can't for the life of me figure out why the tech who worked on my car didn't put any grease in there. Well, I packed the inside of the rtabs with blue marine grease (after scouring the forum, there seemed to be more people squeak free from the blue (or green) marine grease). I used CRC's StaLube SL3121. It's for boat trailers and 4X4 wheel bearings...mud and wetness. This stuff is supposed to have a high resistance to wash out and also is effective at temps up to 375 F. Cost was $8.97 Prime on Amazon. Worth every penny! I pressed out the metal sleeves and just left the bushings in the trailing arm. I used my little finger to put alot of grease inside the bushings. I then pressed back in the sleeves. It matters if the sleeves are flush or sticking out even a hair. Make sure they are flush with the bushing on each end. (I wasn't very careful on the second trailing arm with this, and it squeaked after I put it back in.) I also lubed up the ends of the bushings and sleeves before reinstalling in the trailing arms. Don't know if this really matters, but it made sense to me.
After getting the car back together, I took it for a test drive awhile ago. Quiet as a mouse...the suspension was anyway. Rough roads didn't matter. I'm really glad I did this. I wish the dealership had greased the rtabs the first time. I wouldn't have been under the car for two days, otherwise. I really hope the marine grease lasts a long time, too.
BTW, we put 5676 miles on the car on the road trip to WA. It handles better than it ever has, probably even when it was new. I have MZ3 solid rubber fcabs on heavy duty Meyle control arms. I have stock cabrio springs with Bilstein HDs all around, so it's not slammed. But it does carve up the mountain twisties. I've never had a car that just loves to be thrown into curves. My M Roadster handles like its on rails, but I do have to be ready for oversteer with it. The two cars handle very differently, of course. But this e30 vert is a blast to drive. I never could upset it, even when pushing it hard through several mountain ranges.
I hope this info helps others. Sorry for the long post. But I wanted you guys to have details.
So I ended up dropping the rear subframe yesterday and put it back today. What I found was no grease whatsoever in the grease grooves of the rtabs. I kinda already knew that, but I can't for the life of me figure out why the tech who worked on my car didn't put any grease in there. Well, I packed the inside of the rtabs with blue marine grease (after scouring the forum, there seemed to be more people squeak free from the blue (or green) marine grease). I used CRC's StaLube SL3121. It's for boat trailers and 4X4 wheel bearings...mud and wetness. This stuff is supposed to have a high resistance to wash out and also is effective at temps up to 375 F. Cost was $8.97 Prime on Amazon. Worth every penny! I pressed out the metal sleeves and just left the bushings in the trailing arm. I used my little finger to put alot of grease inside the bushings. I then pressed back in the sleeves. It matters if the sleeves are flush or sticking out even a hair. Make sure they are flush with the bushing on each end. (I wasn't very careful on the second trailing arm with this, and it squeaked after I put it back in.) I also lubed up the ends of the bushings and sleeves before reinstalling in the trailing arms. Don't know if this really matters, but it made sense to me.
After getting the car back together, I took it for a test drive awhile ago. Quiet as a mouse...the suspension was anyway. Rough roads didn't matter. I'm really glad I did this. I wish the dealership had greased the rtabs the first time. I wouldn't have been under the car for two days, otherwise. I really hope the marine grease lasts a long time, too.
BTW, we put 5676 miles on the car on the road trip to WA. It handles better than it ever has, probably even when it was new. I have MZ3 solid rubber fcabs on heavy duty Meyle control arms. I have stock cabrio springs with Bilstein HDs all around, so it's not slammed. But it does carve up the mountain twisties. I've never had a car that just loves to be thrown into curves. My M Roadster handles like its on rails, but I do have to be ready for oversteer with it. The two cars handle very differently, of course. But this e30 vert is a blast to drive. I never could upset it, even when pushing it hard through several mountain ranges.
I hope this info helps others. Sorry for the long post. But I wanted you guys to have details.
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