The camber and toe correction plates seem with hardware seems to me to be stupidly expensive for what they are. Does anyone know the dimensions of these as to where I can make them on my own in a metal shop?
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E30 Rear camber/toe correction plates
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I just spent the last half hour trying to find my calipers to no avail. I just welded on the camber portions but haven't done the toe. If no one has measured by tomorrow I'll grab a caliper at work.
However, I think they're perfectly worth it. The expensive bits are the eccentric bolts/washers/nuts. That's as much as the brackets!84 325e - 91 325i - 92 318 touring - 91 Trans Am - 01 S4 avant - 03 S-type R - 96 F350
Manual swap all the things!
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Originally posted by iansane View PostI just spent the last half hour trying to find my calipers to no avail. I just welded on the camber portions but haven't done the toe. If no one has measured by tomorrow I'll grab a caliper at work.
However, I think they're perfectly worth it. The expensive bits are the eccentric bolts/washers/nuts. That's as much as the brackets!1991 325i Calypso Coupe
Like Grandfather, Like Father, Like Son
BMW
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E30 Rear camber/toe correction plates
Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostNot having a subframe to measure makes things difficult (assuming his is still in his car).
Alright alright you guys caught me, I'm a bit lazy. I have a separate subframe these are going on so I just have to get it there. How thick are the plates? Because I need to know really what kind of stock to use. I'm not very good at making things from imagination either so I was hoping I could get dimensions and just make them.1991 325i Calypso Coupe
Like Grandfather, Like Father, Like Son
BMW
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The plates are u-shaped with the gap being equal to the diameter of the eccentrics. They don't need to be very thick, perhaps 5/32". To match the IE types the overall dimensions of the plates will be about 1-3/8" by 1-1/2".
The eccentric plates are okay, but nowhere as good as IE's serrated plates that they offer now. The eccentrics tend to loosen and move, especially the outboard toe adjusters.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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While the new serrated plates are a big improvement over what IE sold me, they are still difficult to adjust, especially if you have poly bushings. What happens is that when you loosen the bolt, they pop out of adjustment, making it hard to make small changes without carefully marking where you were.
On the plates they sold me, they didn't have the side channels to keep the two plates parallel. It takes three hands to adjust them. Furthermore, the bolt loosened on me three different times, once while entering turn 2 at WGI at ~90mph.
When I asked for help, IE suggested locktite. This simply won't work because you would need to get the adjustment correct, then loosen the bolt to get the locktite on the threads, then tighten the bolt, however, when you loosen the bolt, the plates move and go out of adjustment.
Bottom line is that I am out $200 and I need to cut this crap off my subframe and design my own system. I really wish IE would do the right thing and at least reimburse me the $200 but they don't seem interested in that, although they know they had a bad design, or they wouldn't have redesigned it.sigpic'87 325is, S50, Lightened Flywheel, Ground Control suspension, Strut Tower Braces, Roll Bar, Five point Harness, lots of little go fast things.
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