Subframe bushing logistics.

[2002maniac]

Would it be possible to replace the subframe bushings without removing the exhaust, driveshaft, brake lines? I figure you could just remove the diff mount and the 2 subframe mounts and drop it a few inches to get the bushings out.

Any problems with this?

[rs4pro3]

Not possible, you have to drop it at least 5-6 inches to get the top of the bushing to clear the stud in the body(unless you pound the stud out). Also what bushing would you be putting back in?

[2002maniac]

I was planning on pounding the stud out the top. I will replace them with reinforced stockers.

[Old'n'Slow]

I was planning on pounding the stud out the top. I will replace them with reinforced stockers.

It doesn't work that way!

You can't pound on it from above. You'll be futilely pounding on the car body! What I did was melt/saw out the interior web of the bushing, then use a puller against the remaining stud to remove the bushing from the arm, then wiggle the stud with whatever you have i.e. air hammer, mallet, etc, till it drops.

I removed nothing else.

If you've never done this, proceed with the knowledge that those m-f'ing bushings have a death grip on the arms. Patience-lots of it-are needed.

[Eric Giles]

Would it be possible to replace the subframe bushings without removing the exhaust, driveshaft, brake lines? I figure you could just remove the diff mount and the 2 subframe mounts and drop it a few inches to get the bushings out.

Any problems with this?

Actually, you can remove the bushings without removing anything. However, you really need to be using the factory BMW special tool in order to do it this way. You just need to disconnect the sway bar links, rear shocks, and the differential mounting bolt at the diff. bushing. Obviously you want to have a floor jack under the diff to support the weight. Then once you remove the subframe bolts, you can wiggle the subframe down JUST enough to get the factory tools in there. That is how I did it with the BMW tools, but now that Koala Motorsport no longer rents any BMW tools, I guess I will have to make my own or get the blowtorch ready. Since I will be using the factory parts, pressing them back in should be a pain.

Ditto on pounding them out from the top-that will not work. Those bushings are IN there.

[2002maniac]

hmm. I wasnt planning on pounding anything out from the top. The knurled subframe bolts do come out from the top right?

support the subframe with a jack. Then simply whack the pins from underneath with a hammer. For me it was about 3 whacks and they popped right out. I read in the FAQ's to put a towel over the bolts in the car so they don't don't go flying around your interior. I forgot to do this, but I didn't whack them hard enough to send them flying.

[arsevader]

Actually, you can remove the bushings without removing anything. However, you really need to be using the factory BMW special tool in order to do it this way.

That makes the very large assumption that the top of the bushing isn't bonded into the body in which case you need to chisel the remaining peices out of there. :)

[asubimmer]

what do you guys think of the solid aluminum ones on a dd/auto-xer? I am going to start doing tracking also. I don't mind a harsh ride but I don't know exactly how harsh solids ones would be. I am rarely on bad roads but I don't want to be brused and bleading after a ride to tacobell.

[rwh11385]

That makes the very large assumption that the top of the bushing isn't bonded into the body in which case you need to chisel the remaining peices out of there. :)

that fucking piece of shit broken off in the body...

[arsevader]

that fucking piece of shit broken off in the body...

"Steel, meet Aluminum, he's strong and light...Aluminum meet steel, she's tight and made of a completely different metal than you.

You guys go off and get to know each other for 15-20 years, you'll be inseperable."

[Eric Giles]

That makes the very large assumption that the top of the bushing isn't bonded into the body in which case you need to chisel the remaining peices out of there. :)

Well, that happened to me also on my driver's side bushing. I was still able to use the tools to remove the bushing without removing the subframe. I then took an air chisel thru the open hole in the subframe where the bushing was and FINALLY got the rest of that piece out. It did make access a bit harder, but there was still enough room to work.

I have my fingers crossed this does not happen on the M3 in the next few week! :sad:

[Eric Giles]

hmm. I wasnt planning on pounding anything out from the top. The knurled subframe bolts do come out from the top right?

Correct.

[Eric Giles]

Oh and more more tip that I got from Brett Anderson-when you reinstall the new bushings, put some anti-seize on the metal knub on the bushing where it inserts into the body. This way, if for some reason you have to remove the subframe in the future, it will drop right out and prevent the metal from bonding.

[ak96ss]

Oh and more more tip that I got from Brett Anderson-when you reinstall the new bushings, put some anti-seize on the metal knub on the bushing where it inserts into the body. This way, if for some reason you have to remove the subframe in the future, it will drop right out and prevent the metal from bonding.

+1

It took me an hour on each side to remove the stub of the subframe bushing from the body. What a PITA that was.

[ptownTSI]

are you guys using air hammers to hit those bolts out?