I've replace everything i can think of including pads, rotors, calipers, CA, tie rods and strut mounts. What else could cause all this vibration? It's present at all speeds under light-moderate to heavy braking. I'm out of ideas!
-
-
Is the vibration in the steering wheel or the brake pedal?
If you've replaced all the parts you say you have properly, I'd say its most likely a wheel/tire issue. Swap the rears to the front and vise-versa and see if it goes away.'91 318is
sigpic -
I had that problem. It was the tires. They look OK when on the car, but upon closer inspection at the shop, the tires belts had separated, and while it still held air, the balance changed and the tire had bulges in a few places. It made it vibrate a little at speed, but under braking it was rediculous.
Good Luck.Comment
-
hmmmm ok i guess i will take the car to the alignment/balance shop and see what they can find. I notice almost no vibration at speed at all, it's all under braking. But i would say that the vibration is in the steering wheel and in the pedal, it shakes the whole car!Comment
-
Jay (Mystikal) had a similar problem a few years ago, he changed rotors, pads and was still getting the same prob.
Finally they fiqured out it was the front wheel bearings.........
Its not something i would have guessed, but i guess it is possible.
Comment
-
Huh, interesting. I checked them over thoroughly when I replaced all the other parts, i could see no play or resistance, they looked and felt to be in perfect shape. But you never know...Sounds like the easiest thing to check is the wheels/tires, then if that doesn't do it move on to the bearings. Thanks for the help guys.Originally posted by T.Dot E30Comment
-
Well i took it to the alignment shop and had them balance the wheels...problem is they say they were already balanced. The guy insists it's the rotors, even though i told him they are <1 yr old and I had them turned when i changed brake pads a few months ago. I don't see how it could possibly be those. So i think i will try taking it to a more performance oriented wheel/tire shop.Comment
-
See if you can find a shop with a Hunter "Road Force" balancer.'91 318is
sigpicComment
-
Actually you had ur rotors "turned" aka machining............thats ur problem right there.
Replace your rotors, and learn to do things right the first time.
Machining them makes them thinner and will warp easily.Comment
-
you said you replaced control arms, did you do the bushings as well?Comment
-
Kind of hard to do the arms and not do the bushings.Originally posted by Borat
Comment
-
Yes i did do the bushings too. And no, turning the rotors does not make them that much thinner. In fact, if done well it only takes off a few thousandths of an inch. Just enough to remove any pad deposits and grooves.Comment
-
I was going to suggest that, although it really isn't all that common.Originally posted by T.Dot E30
If the bearings are fucked up enough, they'll wiggle around and create the feeling of too much run-out in the rotors. Left unchecked, you will end up with actual run-out in the rotors, because of the bearings.Comment
-
I'd replace the rotors firstComment
-
darren-
heat those things up on the freeway and then perform some slow braking. if the frequency of the vibration slows down with vehicle speed, it's your rotors. i machined rotors once upon a time that were used but well above their min specs. it didn't take long for the vibration to come back. driving styles will do that to rotors. we never machine at the dealership, and places that do, their comebacks come to us and we replace with new OE parts. that would be the first place i'd check right there.
another thing, do you feel the vibration in the body as well (through the seat), or mainly just a pedal/steering wheel vibration? and how else is everything on the car, all the improvements are for the better?Comment
Comment