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E30 control arm bushing comprehensive guide
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E30 control arm bushing comprehensive guide
Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com
Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.comTags: None
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Just got some communication back from BMW Germany regarding the difference between 31129064875 vs 31129061222 (both look identical offset bushings). Apparently there is a difference in the rubber compound used and the E36 M3 offset bushing is stiffer.Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com
Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com
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Nice write up... I think I'm going to be going for the solid rubber E36 bushings.Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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Originally posted by Cabriolet View PostYour resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com
Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com
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Question about the solid bushings. I got a set of control arms from a guy for cheap. Going to press out the balljoints and replace them. The CABs in the lollipops are already the M3 centered bushings
Question: I can't see ANYTHING wrong with them - should I even bother replacing them?? I do have a fresh Lemforder set that came with the arms. There is no obvious signs of damage to the CABs. They are on tight and look good. It would be one less step in the job (and probably the most annoying from what I've read).
Thoughts?Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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If they are still on the control arms (since re and re usually damages them) the only reason not to use them is if the donor car had a very different suspension set up than yours (say stock vs slammed). The concern being that if the CABs were properly installed they are preloaded to that specific car.
What I've done is to take a MAP torch and VERY GENTLY heat the exposed end of th CA just enough to warm, not melt, the CAB. This should allow itnto take a natural set. Not the best idea but if you are ddtermined not to replace them, it's better than nothing IMHOSeat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220
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I'm not sure of the set up, but the arms were pulled from another E30.
I have the new CABs, so replacing them is really no skin off my nose. Just trying to save some hassle and wanted to know if there were any caveats to using the ones already on the arms.Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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Originally posted by estoguy View PostI'm not sure of the set up, but the arms were pulled from another E30.
I have the new CABs, so replacing them is really no skin off my nose. Just trying to save some hassle and wanted to know if there were any caveats to using the ones already on the arms.
Always best to have fresh OEM or lemf bushings. Its a simple job with the control arms off the car.Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com
Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com
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OK... will do. Like I said, I have the new ones, so it's no real skin off my nose.
What's the best way to pull the solid rubber CABs off the control arm?Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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