Brake Refresh Help

[Danyo]

Hey guys I'm pretty new to my E30 but I'm looking refresh my brakes.
I bought
Stainless Steel Lines
Master and Slave Cylinder (they're leaking currently)
Master to clutch line
Caliper Rebuild
Hawk Pads
Brembo Rotors
ATE Type 200 Fluid

Will I need anything else? What order should I put these in my car in? Will I need to bleed my clutch? Will I need to disconnect my transmission in order to do this refresh? Thanks in advance guys.

[estoguy]

I haven't done a master cylinder or slave, so can't help you there directly. Which master are we talking about? The brake master or clutch master? I'm assuming clutch.

Since you're replacing the master and slave, I'd figger that you'd get as much brake fluid out of the system before hand, and install those first, install all the brake hardware, and then start bleeding.

Since you're replacing the clutch master and slave and the line, no doubt you have to bleed.

The order? Clutch work independent of the brakes, you just need to make sure you top up fluid as you go. Don't forget to bleed the rear brakes first... you should you right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. For the brakes, I'd definitely recommend a pressure bleeder. I'd tried one of those crappy one man kits when I did mine (parts store was out of the pressure bleeders), and it sucked.

I've found the E30 to be touchy about air in the brake lines, so make sure you do a good bleed. Check out Jim's post on this: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...83&postcount=5 Note the fluid amounts you should push through, depending on your brake system. You'll need a liter or so for non ABS, and 1.5 liters for ABS systems.

[glnr13]

key to those one man bleeders is the end should be submerged to ensure no air gets back in the system. despite that little ball bearing in the hose air still tends to get back in. i've used many of them and they work perfectly but only good for a few bleed jobs.

[TimeMachinE30]

I have the Motive Power Bleeder. No issues with it.

Looks like you got all you need for a total redo. What about paint for the calipers? May as well clean them up and put a fresh coat on!

I like to use new fasteners where needed, too. Dont think those items use one-use bolts but the hex head fastener for the rotor can get buggered easily. Each is well under a dollar.

And absolutely will need to bleed. You are compromising a sealed system.

No need to disconnect transmission. I recall all you'd need to get to the clutch slave would be getting the drive shafts out of the way.. I don't think you can get it from topside. Little u sure as I have my driveline removed ATM. Makes work much easier!

[jeffnhiscars]

Keep in mind then clutch connection to the fluid reservoir is in the middle so no way to get air in the brakes bleeding the clutch.