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Rear subframe toe/camber adjustment worth it for mild drop?

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    Rear subframe toe/camber adjustment worth it for mild drop?

    I'm planning on a subframe refresh this spring, and I'm thinking about the Posi-Lock style of adjusters from Ireland Engineering.


    After some reading, it looks like there are some issues with the alignment repeatedly going out of spec once it is set.

    Right now, I'm running a mild drop with H&R Sport springs, and have no plans to go with a lower or more aggressive suspension setup.

    The car is a DD restomod, and not meant to feel or behave like a track car.
    That said, I do enjoy spirited driving and plan to attend a trackday or two, to learn the limits of the car in a safe and controlled environment.
    Longterm, a boosted M52b28 is in the cards, with accompanying wide rear rubber.


    In your opinion, does the possibility of loosing proper rear alignment make it not worth having rear toe and camber adjustment for a mild setup?

    Cheers!
    Last edited by Panici; 03-30-2016, 09:43 AM.

    #2
    Bump.

    I asked Jeff from IE, and he said "Adjustable rear subframe is not usually needed on most street cars."


    Still hoping you guys have some input.

    Comment


      #3
      I daily my mildly lowered (bavauto springs and billi sports) 92 vert. It handles beautifully and doesn't eat up tires. I'd be in the "not needed" category for rear alignment capability.
      Originally posted by Andy.B
      Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
      1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
      ~~~~~~~~~~
      I was born on 3/25…
      ~~~~~~~~~~

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
        I daily my mildly lowered (bavauto springs and billi sports) 92 vert. It handles beautifully and doesn't eat up tires. I'd be in the "not needed" category for rear alignment capability.
        I'm thinking they're not needed unless something is bent.

        Just curious, how much drop did the bavauto springs give in the rear?

        Comment


          #5
          When you set the camber and toe adjustments, have the guy put a tack weld on it so that it's easy enough to take off when you adjust it again (if you ever do).

          I'm putting around on 400wtq and although I don't abuse the car my alignment hasn't come out of place.

          1991 325iS turbo

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Panici View Post
            I'm thinking they're not needed unless something is bent.

            Just curious, how much drop did the bavauto springs give in the rear?
            Not sure. It's been a while. My 205/50/16's have about 5/8" of fender gap at the top of the rear tire, if that tells you anything.
            Originally posted by Andy.B
            Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
            1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
            ~~~~~~~~~~
            I was born on 3/25…
            ~~~~~~~~~~

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ak- View Post
              When you set the camber and toe adjustments, have the guy put a tack weld on it so that it's easy enough to take off when you adjust it again (if you ever do).

              I'm putting around on 400wtq and although I don't abuse the car my alignment hasn't come out of place.
              Ok, that's not a bad idea with the tack weld. I could even go with the cheaper (old style/ not posilock) adjusters since they'll be tacked anyways.


              I am going to wait to weld in adjustment plates though. When I'm closer to getting the turbo M52b28 in there, I'll need to drop the subframe again anyways to reinforce everything.

              Comment

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