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    Traling arm moving around

    I while ago I replace my RTAB with Revshift 95A duro bushing. I lately installed 20mm spacers on the rear and started to notice a clank sound when sitching from accel to brake and vice versa... after double checking its the outer RTAB that is moving forward/reverse vs the subframe.n Like id the fit between the busing inner sleeve and bolt was loose. COuld it only be tha the bolt has come loose? Haven't been under yet.
    E30 now S52
    2008 Suburban LTZ (Family and TT hauler)
    325xiT (Sold)

    sigpic

    #2
    Unless the bolt holes in the trailing arm brackets are worn or there is some other problem with the brackets, a loose bolt should not cause noise with a change in acceleration. That would be more likely to be a bad bushing or loose/ill fitting subframe mounts.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      The subframe is definitely not moving... it's solid mounted to the body and I had the chance to see that it's not moving around. It's really the arm that is moving relative to the subframe. Hope it is not the hole Where the TA bolt to the subframe that is ovalized.
      Last edited by MatRacer; 11-07-2016, 05:45 PM.
      E30 now S52
      2008 Suburban LTZ (Family and TT hauler)
      325xiT (Sold)

      sigpic

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        #4
        Did you get the trailing arm bolts torqued down enough? I had a problem with my E30 after doing the RTABs, started getting this rattling noise going over bumps and found that my bolts weren't tight enough. I got her up on ramps and worked on those bolts more. Much better now.

        The PITA is that you really can't get a torque wrench down there, so just tighten them as much as you can.
        Estoguy
        1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"

        Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives

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          #5
          Make sure before yountighten those bolts that the cars weight is on the suspension not on stands. Otherwise you risk preloading the bushings and shortening their life
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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            #6
            I had that same clunking, bolt had come loose. Tightened it up, no more clunk


            T U R B O - M 2 0 - B U I L D

            M U S C C O O

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              #7
              Thanks for all the answer!

              I will check the tightening for sure but after reflexion, I do question the fact that the bolts must be tightened with the weight on the suspension... when you tighten the bolt, it first contact the tabs on the subframe, then i must deform the tabs which I assume contact the inner steel sleeve. So ideally, I think that the sleeve shoud be fix and that the Polyurethane part of the bushing should rotate around the sleeve. I also assume that the polyurethane part of the bushing must be able to slip on the subframe tabs...

              So with all that being said, how the preload is really transmitted to the polyurethane part of the bushing? It must be able to slip, so event if you tighten it with the car raised, would really the side of the bushing sitck to the tabs and kind of twist it? I doubt.

              Also, after thinking even more about it, even with the bolt properly tightened, is the friction between the ends on the sleeve and the subframe tabs enought to keep the sleeve moving around front and back due to hard accel and hard braking? I also doubt. If it is well tightened, it will not produce a clunkiing, but it may moves.

              Edit: or the sleeve is shorter than the polyurethane part and tabs sit on the polyurethane and really slip (or twist?) under load when the suspension works up and down ...
              Last edited by MatRacer; 11-17-2016, 08:41 PM.
              E30 now S52
              2008 Suburban LTZ (Family and TT hauler)
              325xiT (Sold)

              sigpic

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                #8
                I question whether the bushing and sleeve are not bonded but since I've heard poly bushing ,make noise and need to be lubed s i suspect they may rotate in the arm. Kind of defeats the point of it to my mind but then I've never had poly so ...
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                  #9
                  Probably another failed Revshift product. Don't worry, you're not the only one... Next time spend the watts couple $ and buy from a quality company from the get go.
                  Never had any problems with my AKG bushings in any of my e30's.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  The best one-stop shopping for German car parts and lifestyle: http://www.gutenparts.com/

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                    #10
                    Did not know Revshift was known for not so good products...
                    E30 now S52
                    2008 Suburban LTZ (Family and TT hauler)
                    325xiT (Sold)

                    sigpic

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by MatRacer View Post
                      Did not know Revshift was known for not so good products...
                      "revshift youtube" search had a few less than ideal hits

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                        #12
                        What do you guys think about UHMW "Bushing"
                        E30 now S52
                        2008 Suburban LTZ (Family and TT hauler)
                        325xiT (Sold)

                        sigpic

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Weird I've never heard of revshift product being crappy. My friend is giving me some extra 95a bushings and I'm doing a condor uhmw diff/ cabs. Haven't heard anything about the quality of condors uhmw material but I talked to someone that installed them in their iX said they went in good, couldn't vouch for the feel since his e30 wasn't registered yet. Although I noticed someone in the build section got revshift but only got 7/8 bushings for the Rtab's then went with akg.
                          Build Thread
                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=419655
                          Parts Thread
                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=408302

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by squidrope View Post
                            "revshift youtube" search had a few less than ideal hits
                            Searched Revshift on YouTube and just got a bunch of crap. :yawn:
                            Build Thread
                            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=419655
                            Parts Thread
                            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=408302

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