Rear subframe bushing washer

[iPee]

I have the garagistic rear subframe along with their poly bushings. I tried to put the subframe washers on top of the subframe bushings but the sleeve is either too big or the bore of the washer is too small. I did notice when I tried to remove it off the oem rubber bushings it was quite stuck as well so I ordered new washers from BMW. Since I could not get them on I lined them up on the subframe and tried to press it up against the body that way but it wouldn't budge. It ended up scoring the sleeve a bit as shown below. Has anyone run poly bushings without the washers? Any suggestions on putting the washer on?

[Mook613]

I think you have the bushing in upside down. The flat side of the bushing goes up.
Take a look at the bracket that goes onto the bottom of that bushing and screws into the side of the car. That bracket has a curve to it that fits with the bottom side of the bushing.

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[sklbase]

I think he has it correct. The cutout in the poly is so you can get at the control arm bolts and nuts.

I believe I put mine in without the washer.


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[iPee]

It is put in correctly. The cutout is to access the nut for the eccentric bolt.


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[iPee]

All good, used a file and bored out the washer a tiny bit.

[Northern]

The washer spreads load out over the bushing.

You need to install it, or the bushing is only supported by the small nub up under the car...

[Swendog]

See my post below on 4/5/17- above responses were correct- you need to file the inside of the washer a bit to get it to fit and yes you need the washer...BUT...if you want to access the outboard adjusters, you should cut the washer as well to match the cutout on the bushing...

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=344410&page=5

[iPee]

Thanks guys appreciate the response. Guess I'll cut the washer a little bit. Did a mock up today and everything lined up pretty well except for the bushing cup and the hex bolts. Think it's a good idea to file out those holes on the frame as well so I have a little more room to slide it back and forth? I have a feeling it'll be even harder to wiggle around with the diff and trailing arms attached.

[Klug]

Man, good timing! I JUST went through this EXACT same issue last week.

Installed the subframe without the washers- since yes, they don't fit over the garagistic mounts and followed a DIY video with powerflex bushings from barvauto.

Fast forward about 100 miles, I was getting a lot of noise and just couldn't pinpoint if it was normal with polly or not. Well, I asked around a bit more and found out that I had to use the washers.

Just last week, I dropped the rear for what seems like the 10th time and had to grind down the inside of the washers to fit- IIRC it was 25.20mm stock and had to grind down to 25.90 to make it fit snug and not loose.

Things are much better now- as stated above, it is needed to spread out the load.

OEM Left, Modified Right


Without the washers my driveshaft was hitting the top of the subframe


Looks about right..ugh

[iPee]

Glad you found the fix. It's not just Garagistic bushing either, I tried to fit it on the oem subframe bushing and ran into the same issue. I grinded out a bit more than I'd like but I'm okay with that for now. It just fits the sleeve but it can still rotate, but should stay fixed once all bolted up.

How do you like the upgrade? I'm still quite a bit away from driving. Need to do the fronts now as well as couple of other items.

[wworm]

Man, good timing! I JUST went through this EXACT same issue last week.

Installed the subframe without the washers- since yes, they don't fit over the garagistic mounts and followed a DIY video with powerflex bushings from barvauto.

Fast forward about 100 miles, I was getting a lot of noise and just couldn't pinpoint if it was normal with polly or not. Well, I asked around a bit more and found out that I had to use the washers.

Just last week, I dropped the rear for what seems like the 10th time and had to grind down the inside of the washers to fit- IIRC it was 25.20mm stock and had to grind down to 25.90 to make it fit snug and not loose.

Things are much better now- as stated above, it is needed to spread out the load.

OEM Left, Modified Right


Without the washers my driveshaft was hitting the top of the subframe


Looks about right..ugh

How are you removing the center sleeves from the car? I need to put my washers in and don't want to have to force thread a bolt into the sleeve in order to tap it out from above. Also, I've got mad squeaks from these bushings. Any tips anyone?


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[Klug]

How are you removing the center sleeves from the car? I need to put my washers in and don't want to have to force thread a bolt into the sleeve in order to tap it out from above. Also, I've got mad squeaks from these bushings. Any tips anyone?


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Your using polly right? Not rubber..which is all one piece?

With the polly ones the center sleeve slides in and out of the 2-piece bushing. Should be able to wiggle the whole subframe down to a point where the bushings separate and you can slide out the sleeve.

Coat the crap out of the polly ones with COPPER anti-seize- as the copper eventually embeds itself into the polly and reduces the squeaks. I had AKG TAB's on my other e30 and didn't lather them up enough- then a year later the squeaks drove me up the wall and I went back to rubber.

[wworm]

Your using polly right? Not rubber..which is all one piece?

With the polly ones the center sleeve slides in and out of the 2-piece bushing. Should be able to wiggle the whole subframe down to a point where the bushings separate and you can slide out the sleeve.

Coat the crap out of the polly ones with COPPER anti-seize- as the copper eventually embeds itself into the polly and reduces the squeaks. I had AKG TAB's on my other e30 and didn't lather them up enough- then a year later the squeaks drove me up the wall and I went back to rubber.

Yeah using poly. I thought I was pretty liberal with the copper anti seize but I think I need to go back in and smear some more around. I noticed the hole on the plate that goes under the rear subframe bushing (that bolts to the car with those allen bolts) was somewhat ovalized. I assumed this would allow for more subframe movement than desired and I'm assuming they're supposed to be round, is that correct? Also, is there supposed to be a washer that goes on the bottom of the bushing too or does the bushing just rest on this plate?

[iPee]

The washer sits on top of the bushing.

The hole where the Allen bolt goes throuh was ovaled a bit on mine as well. Probably due to wear and tear.