No pressure after pressure bleeding

[TylerfromTarget]

Dealing with long pedal before getting hard. Bled system two man. Got a little stiffer but still long. Replaced lines rotors and pads. Power bled, got much better feel but the travel was still there before it gets hard. Read online recently that depressing the pedal when pressure bleeding will free up the air inside the master. Because otherwise it’s not being circulated with new fluid. Bled it with the pressure bleeder today but I think I depressed the pedal way too much. Pushed it pretty much as far as it would go. Several times per side. Got a completely soft pedal. But it doesn’t stick to the floor. My question. Is my mc toast now? Or did I just introduce air into the system by pushing it all the way down? Will re bleed tomorrow and try a few short depresses just to circulate. Hoping I don’t need a new master and a proper bleed will fix it. If not, am I able to get a cheaper brand new mc for 50 over the more expensive ate brand? This car will not be tracked and all mc should be pretty much the same right? They’re just small pieces! Thanks for the replies. Pretty sure there’s no air in lines. 100% clear. Although the front left bleeder screw leaks a bit when it’s open a lot. Wonder if pressing the pedal with a slightly leaking bleeder screw would be the cause of the soft pedal. Inputs please!

[E30335i]

Bleed the master first, it helps getting trapped air there. The 12mm on the side. Pump pedal and slowly open it until it stops bubbling or until only fluid comes out. Do it with the line behind it. It’s a little harder but it helps. Try that. If not abs related


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[noid]

Make sure to bleed the clutch slave (if manual), and then proceed to "gravity bleed" your brakes, that should take care of air stuck in a weird place.

[locar]

I definitely wouldn't cheap out on the master cylinder. It's pretty important.

[TylerfromTarget]

Bleed the master first, it helps getting trapped air there. The 12mm on the side. Pump pedal and slowly open it until it stops bubbling or until only fluid comes out. Do it with the line behind it. It’s a little harder but it helps. Try that. If not abs related


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Is it recommended because I don’t have to bleed the whole system or is it the only way to get that air out? I’d rather flush fluid than undo lines if I’m not going to replace the master

[TylerfromTarget]

Make sure to bleed the clutch slave (if manual), and then proceed to "gravity bleed" your brakes, that should take care of air stuck in a weird place.

Clutch feels perfect, wouldn’t power bleeding be the best option? I have great high quality hardware for it

[E30335i]

You don’t undo it, you just loosen it,bleed it, tighten


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[TylerfromTarget]

You don’t undo it, you just loosen it,bleed it, tighten


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Yeah loosen a 1/4 turn? I think I opened them about 1/2, when the front left opens more than a 1/4 it drips

[e30davie]

Everyone has different strategy for bleeding brakes but ill throw out my method that has worked on i dunno many cars including e30. 2 people required.

-fill up master
-pump brakes a few times, and hold.
-crack bleeder, and slowly get your assistant to push pedal to ~80% of travel. Important not to bottom it out.
-close bleeder when pedal is still traveling down to avoid sucking air in.
-rinse and repeat.

good idea to start from the furtherest away from master and move closer, but i think in reality it doesn't make too much difference.

A brake master is very simple really, generally they either work or they have catastrophic seal failure. If you don't have fluid gushing out between the master and the booster that is a good sign.

[mitchlikesbikes]

Everyone has different strategy for bleeding brakes but ill throw out my method that has worked on i dunno many cars including e30. 2 people required.

-fill up master
-pump brakes a few times, and hold.
-crack bleeder, and slowly get your assistant to push pedal to ~80% of travel. Important not to bottom it out.
-close bleeder when pedal is still traveling down to avoid sucking air in.
-rinse and repeat.

good idea to start from the furtherest away from master and move closer, but i think in reality it doesn't make too much difference.

A brake master is very simple really, generally they either work or they have catastrophic seal failure. If you don't have fluid gushing out between the master and the booster that is a good sign.

This is how I've always done it, both at home and at work. Has pretty much always worked for me.