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    Bad Brake Check Valve?

    Hi,

    I have a 1990 325i(S). It started life as an auto and someone later converted it to a 5 speed with lsd.

    When I first bought the car there was an issue with the brakes. It dropped to the floor and barely stopped. I put in a new MC and it felt much better. However, I personally still feel there could be some improvement in the braking performance. I may just be spoiled with fixed caliper setups. Fast forward some time, and I happened to be talking to an engineer friend who loves E30s. He suggest I look at the check valve to the brake booster. First I've heard of a check valve before, so I started digging.

    Turns out a failure of a check valve can either lead to a super stiff pedal, or soft one. Great. I decide I should take the valve off, and inspect it. However, while looking at the hoses I came across what looks to be two check valves. A quick google shows there are two types of check valves used on e30s. Apparently there is one for an automatic, and another for a manual.

    Auto:

    Manual:


    The photos of my car are here:


    I have the 3 tee check valve going to the throttle body, automatic version, but down by the booster I also see a 90 degree fitting that appears to also be the check valve for a manual car.

    I'm not super familiar with these cars, so I'm certain if the 90 degree fitting is a manual check valve or if those check valves would normally replace the 3 tee check valve in the same location. Like this: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=116665

    I'm unfamiliar with these cars and because it was an auto to manual swap, I want to be sure that I'm no confusing a standard 90 degree fitting on the booster with a check valve.

    #2
    A check valve either works or doesn't. Easy test is to blow through one end, then the other. If it block the air flow in the direction of the engine, it works. If air can pass through both ends, it's broken.

    The fitting on the booster "should" just be a 90 degree elbow.

    Also, don't go by what a parts site says as far as auto and manual. I have seen both styles on both transmissions. Here's a part number cross-reference for the 2 port check valve...

    john@m20guru.com
    Links:
    Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
      A check valve either works or doesn't. Easy test is to blow through one end, then the other. If it block the air flow in the direction of the engine, it works. If air can pass through both ends, it's broken.

      The fitting on the booster "should" just be a 90 degree elbow.

      Also, don't go by what a parts site says as far as auto and manual. I have seen both styles on both transmissions. Here's a part number cross-reference for the 2 port check valve...

      https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...113&series=E30
      Thank you!

      I'll put it and test.

      I also have braided lines to install if the valve ends up being ok. I'm just dreading the sub frame drop.

      Comment

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