Rear end rebuild

[Dr Skillet]

Removed rear parking brake assembly and looking at hub and bearings and they have no play or noise. Question...Do I replace anyway since its a 32 year old car and they are original or do they have yearsss left in them? Taking down the entire subframe and sand blasting and painting and basically replacing everything else on "Rusty". Also can I take differential down with subframe as I am not sure I am going to be able to get top 4 mounting bolts off due to rust. I have half shafts off!

Thanks

Mark

[jbontke]

If you are going to restore the subframe, why skimp out and run bearings that you don't know much about? I am not sure about the diff.

[citizen_insane]

The diff will come down with the subframe. I agree you should replace everything you can while your'e in there if you can afford to. It's so much work to pull the rear subframe that I highly suggest doing everything to it:

• Alignment Adjusters
• New Bearings
• New Bushings
• Reinforced rear arms
• New diff seals
• New rear brakes (and parking brake shoes)
• Painting everything up like you mentioned (POR15 is the best way to do this)

[Andre3127]

Yes, the differential and subframe can come down as one unit, but it's a lot heavier that way. You can remove a fully assembled subframe by yourself, but have some help lifting it back into the car.

[Aleman]

Yes, the differential and subframe can come down as one unit, but it's a lot heavier that way. You can remove a fully assembled subframe by yourself, but have some help lifting it back into the car.

Can't you use a floor jack to lift the assembly up into the car? I'm about to do this big project, so if that's not an option, I'll need to do more planning. Thanks

[Andre3127]

Sure can, but balancing it on the bottom of the differential on instillation can be tricky. Mine fell off several times.

[jeffnhiscars]

Ive done 2 sub frames and both times installed it with the diff and trailing arms already in place. Its a bit of a balancing act but manageable with a floor jack. I also left the drive shaft in place so had to fiddle to get everything aligned...drive shaft first with the subframe tilted back then up for the chassis bolts. An extra pairs of hands really helps and before you tighten the TA bolts measure from the axle center to the fender (before and after) so you dont preload the bushings.

[Zambuzan]

and before you tighten the TA bolts measure from the axle center to the fender (before and after) so you dont preload the bushings.

This only applies to OEM rubber bushings, right?

[jeffnhiscars]

This only applies to OEM rubber bushings, right?

I've only ever used rubber.

[Aleman]

Good thing I have two kids that are nearly adult-size to help me out. Thanks for the info, gents.