Another rear subframe thread.

[Mike325]

The nut holding the subframe bushings in is a 22mm. Good luck with the drop. It can be a bitch but worth it in the end.

[FredK]

I'm pretty sure it's a 22 mm. Not absolutely sure though.

[Jean]

That's exactly what I did. They might be stuck in there from sitting in their bores for 20 years, so be sure to put some PB Blaster on it. Of course, if the car is from California, they might just pull out like they were meant to. :D

Good to know! Hopefully it will drop right out w/o too much hassle. I gotta go pick up a big enough wrench tomorrow for this job, is it a 22mm that holds the subframe on each side of the car ? Biggest I had with me was a 19mm ...just want to make sure I get the right one tomorrow.

[FredK]

That's exactly what I did. They might be stuck in there from sitting in their bores for 20 years, so be sure to put some PB Blaster on it. Of course, if the car is from California, they might just pull out like they were meant to. :D

[Jean]

Great! What's the best (easiest) way to remove the parking brake cables, remove the two nuts that hold them to the parking brake from inside the car and then pull them out from under the car ?

[FredK]

Yep, that's exactly the bolt I was talking about.

I also forgot to mention, you're going to have to remove the rear part of the exhaust.

[Jean]

Yes.

Yes, you need to remove the rear shock bolts that mount to the trailing arms, and you also need to remove the four locknuts securing the driveshaft to the differential input flange. There's also a bolt that secures the differential cover to a sheetmetal ear that is on the car's chassis. Undo the swaybar bracket too.

Remove the wheel speed sensors from the trailing arms if you have ABS, and the parking brake cables. Finally, remove the brake softlines from the hardlines on the trailing arms. These are the upper brake softlines.

This is a great opportunity to remove and replace these brake lines, because otherwise they're pretty hard to get at once the subframe is installed.

FredK, thank you. Rear shock bolts check, the four locknuts are M10s iirc check.

Trying to visualize the bolt that secures the diff cover to a sheetmetal ear ...is this the #14 M12 bolt that goes through the rubber bushing ? (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...24&hg=33&fg=10) or is it something else ?

[FredK]

1) can the whole thing be removed with the rear. diff still attached ?

Yes.

2) what bolts/nuts need to be removed other than the #2 and/or #7 in the picture ? Is there something else that needs to be removed near or over the rear diff ?

Yes, you need to remove the rear shock bolts that mount to the trailing arms, and you also need to remove the four locknuts securing the driveshaft to the differential input flange. There's also a bolt that secures the differential cover to a sheetmetal ear that is on the car's chassis. Undo the swaybar bracket too.

Remove the wheel speed sensors from the trailing arms if you have ABS, and the parking brake cables. Finally, remove the brake softlines from the hardlines on the trailing arms. These are the upper brake softlines.

This is a great opportunity to remove and replace these brake lines, because otherwise they're pretty hard to get at once the subframe is installed.

[Jean]

Nice thread, just read through all of it and have a few questions as I want to drop the rear end / frame this weekend.

1) can the whole thing be removed with the rear. diff still attached ?

2) what bolts/nuts need to be removed other than the #2 and/or #7 in the picture ? Is there something else that needs to be removed near or over the rear diff ?

Thank you!

[Mike325]

I just talked to rob at bimmer world. He said that the big washer, #12 is VERY important to use because it helps keep the knub where the bushing pin goes in from deforming over time.

[Nick325is]

Come to think of it I do not remember seeing that washer during the install.



-Nick

[Mike325]

I am talking about #12

RealOEM.com Home => Select another car => REAR AXLE => REAR AXLE WITH SUSPENSION

[Nick325is]

If you are talking about the big washer that came with the subframe bushings then yes I put them on top.

It was a huge PITA getting the powerflex TA bushings in. It took me forever to get them to compress enough to fit in the car.



-Nick

[Mike325]

That's how my subframe bushings came - bushing/pin went in, then the cap went over top. I was questioning the design until I installed the TA bushings and realized that the two-piece bushings can be finicky.

Thanks for the reply. Did you put the big washer on the top of the cap or is it no longer needed?

[speedblind]

I have powerflex bushings and it does not have these washers that you are refering to. Mine has the bushing and then a big urathane cap that goes on the top of the bushing.

That's how my subframe bushings came - bushing/pin went in, then the cap went over top. I was questioning the design until I installed the TA bushings and realized that the two-piece bushings can be finicky.