Another rear subframe thread.

[Mike325]

I just talked to rob at bimmer world. He said that the big washer, #12 is VERY important to use because it helps keep the knub where the bushing pin goes in from deforming over time.

[Jean]

Nice thread, just read through all of it and have a few questions as I want to drop the rear end / frame this weekend.

1) can the whole thing be removed with the rear. diff still attached ?

2) what bolts/nuts need to be removed other than the #2 and/or #7 in the picture ? Is there something else that needs to be removed near or over the rear diff ?

Thank you!

[FredK]

1) can the whole thing be removed with the rear. diff still attached ?

Yes.

2) what bolts/nuts need to be removed other than the #2 and/or #7 in the picture ? Is there something else that needs to be removed near or over the rear diff ?

Yes, you need to remove the rear shock bolts that mount to the trailing arms, and you also need to remove the four locknuts securing the driveshaft to the differential input flange. There's also a bolt that secures the differential cover to a sheetmetal ear that is on the car's chassis. Undo the swaybar bracket too.

Remove the wheel speed sensors from the trailing arms if you have ABS, and the parking brake cables. Finally, remove the brake softlines from the hardlines on the trailing arms. These are the upper brake softlines.

This is a great opportunity to remove and replace these brake lines, because otherwise they're pretty hard to get at once the subframe is installed.

[Jean]

Yes.

Yes, you need to remove the rear shock bolts that mount to the trailing arms, and you also need to remove the four locknuts securing the driveshaft to the differential input flange. There's also a bolt that secures the differential cover to a sheetmetal ear that is on the car's chassis. Undo the swaybar bracket too.

Remove the wheel speed sensors from the trailing arms if you have ABS, and the parking brake cables. Finally, remove the brake softlines from the hardlines on the trailing arms. These are the upper brake softlines.

This is a great opportunity to remove and replace these brake lines, because otherwise they're pretty hard to get at once the subframe is installed.

FredK, thank you. Rear shock bolts check, the four locknuts are M10s iirc check.

Trying to visualize the bolt that secures the diff cover to a sheetmetal ear ...is this the #14 M12 bolt that goes through the rubber bushing ? (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...24&hg=33&fg=10) or is it something else ?

[FredK]

Yep, that's exactly the bolt I was talking about.

I also forgot to mention, you're going to have to remove the rear part of the exhaust.

[Jean]

Great! What's the best (easiest) way to remove the parking brake cables, remove the two nuts that hold them to the parking brake from inside the car and then pull them out from under the car ?

[FredK]

That's exactly what I did. They might be stuck in there from sitting in their bores for 20 years, so be sure to put some PB Blaster on it. Of course, if the car is from California, they might just pull out like they were meant to. :D

[Jean]

That's exactly what I did. They might be stuck in there from sitting in their bores for 20 years, so be sure to put some PB Blaster on it. Of course, if the car is from California, they might just pull out like they were meant to. :D

Good to know! Hopefully it will drop right out w/o too much hassle. I gotta go pick up a big enough wrench tomorrow for this job, is it a 22mm that holds the subframe on each side of the car ? Biggest I had with me was a 19mm ...just want to make sure I get the right one tomorrow.

[FredK]

I'm pretty sure it's a 22 mm. Not absolutely sure though.

[Mike325]

The nut holding the subframe bushings in is a 22mm. Good luck with the drop. It can be a bitch but worth it in the end.

[Jean]

Thanks guys!

[Nick325is]

Yeah, definitly pull the cables out from the car instead of taking the parking brake apart.

It is a PITA to get the brake back together.



-Nick

[Mike325]

Yeah, definitly pull the cables out from the car instead of taking the parking brake apart.

It is a PITA to get the brake back together.



-Nick

Not really, expecially if you use new springs like you should if yours are worn.

[FredK]

Eh, that brake expander is a pain to disassemble. You can easily replace the springs during a brake job. But to each their own.

[Mike325]

Eh, that brake expander is a pain to disassemble. You can easily replace the springs during a brake job. But to each their own.

Agree. They do suck, but are doable. I would just think the cables would get it the way.

Jean, how you making out with yours?