Another rear subframe thread.
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Full of good info here. I'm wanting to drop the subframe cause I want to replace the Bowden cables, swap in all 6 stainless steel brake lines and clean up & paint the subframe, trailing arms and rear calipers. -
Right, you just have to loosen the rear shocks from the TAs. THen you need to remove the SFB bolt and then loosen the subframe from the chassis. The tool is make to fit in the ~2" space. Of course you need to hold the subframe as a whole so it doesnt strain any lines or cables.Leave a comment:
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Tool makes it a breeze. I rent the tool in another thread below this one. Others have used it already and they had a much easier time.Leave a comment:
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I now just use turpentine. I think it evaporates faster than soapy water or straight soap.Leave a comment:
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Fcab
I use straight Liquid Dish Washing Soap ''Joy''. Amazingly they push on with very little effort. I have heard horror stories people beating them and destroying them trying to get them on. Remember to get the car set up so you can let the car down on it's wheels so they can settle in,- In the rite position before the soap dries and the rubber vulcanizes it's self to the stud/shaft. GLLeave a comment:
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I pulled the subframe and the aluminum cylinder was around the same height as the bore it's supposed to fit in, especially with the thick washer.
The only thing I can think of is that the bushing was installed with some soapy water, and by putting the jackstands on the subframe, forced the subframe to ride up on the bushings before the soapy water dried up.
I pulled the bushings back into their bores so that there is no protruding material and the flange was butted against the bottom of the subframe. I then reinstalled the subframe. Pure joy. At least this time I dropped it really quickly and reinstalled it quickly.
I'm going to let the bushings settle overnight, and hopefully they won't budge when I set the car back down again. Otherwise I'll just drive my car off a cliff. :mrgreen:
This sounds like the same mistake people make in replacing their FCABS. Using WD40 or some lub, grease, white litium, etc to get the FCABs back on the control arms. BMW states to use soapy water....ONLY to lub up the bushings and CAs. If you use grease or lub, the bushings never "bond" to the control arms and they can slide around, changing the suspension geometry.
As far as the subframe bushings, sounds like the same concept happen when you lowered the weight onto the jack stands. Being all slick still, with the soapy water, it pushed the bushing back "out".
Sounds like you fixed the problem though, good for you. Something Ill have to remember myself and tell my shop guys cause their putting SFBs and RTABs in my 90 i next week.
Nice catch!!Leave a comment:
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MAPP torch, glasses, protection [not the baby type].
Get it on fire, keep going. Then hit it.Leave a comment:
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now what?
OK, I'm stuck. The subframe is ready to be removed, but its not dropping. I presume I'm a lucky winnar with metal sleeves fused to car.
The subframe nuts have been removed but the subframe hasn't budged at all.
I guess my options now are:
-Drill out the center section of the bushings, but then I'll still have bits stuck to the car that need to be taken care of.
-I could keep hammering on it, but not sure what that would accomplish.
-Start removing bits (diff, TAs, etc.) but again I will be left with subframe attached to the car.
Any advice?Leave a comment:
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I'm gonna go out on a limb, since he mentioned using a 20-ton press, I'll bet he wasn't dragging that press up under the car, and instead had the subframe free of the car, making the torched bushing more of a "toxic smores" event than a "you burned WHAT down?" event.Leave a comment:
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And burn the rest of your car with them! Sounds like an awesome plan!
Seriously though, use lots of caution when doing so, a friend of mine accidentally got his car a bit hot, and the fire travelled a bit higher up than expected, marring his interior.Leave a comment:

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