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    IE toe/camber kit Q

    I'm finishing up the installation of the IE toe and camber kits on my rear subframe. I temporarily installed one of the trailing arm bolts in the newly modified brackets and noticed that the bolt does not extend all the way thru the self-locking nuts. It's actually about two full threads from even being flush. It ends up looking like this...



    Did IE send me the wrong hardware? This isn't how nuts and bolts are supposed to go together.

    #2
    Are you supposed to weld the pieces to the existing bracket, or cut out the pieces and weld the IE pieces in place? That would account for the spacing issue...

    You could always get a longer bolt.

    Comment


      #3
      looking at the kit, the backing plate needs to be horizontal so you can actually get some adjustment out of the eccentric (otherwise its just moving up and down which is just lowering the pickup point), so the pic doesnt quite look right. That might mean the tabs are surposed to go in place, they do say some grinding is needed.
      Just a little project im working on
      - http://www.lse30.com -

      Comment


        #4
        Answered here:

        Comment


          #5
          I am looking to do this same kit...but if this is another case of IEs "shitty fit system" I will just buy the bolts from the stealer (E43 5 series, IIRC) and make my own damn tabs.

          I want the AKG TABs in urethane.
          Originally posted by ultegra View Post

          Locked for members only

          Closing SOON!
          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Madhatter View Post
            looking at the kit, the backing plate needs to be horizontal so you can actually get some adjustment out of the eccentric (otherwise its just moving up and down which is just lowering the pickup point), so the pic doesnt quite look right. That might mean the tabs are surposed to go in place, they do say some grinding is needed.
            no, there are two peices to this kit - one installed for camber adjustment, and the other for toe. the one in the picture is installed for camber.

            those bolts are from the M coupe I believe - I guess you're supposed to cut away part of the stock trailing arm mount, but mine didn't come with any instructions.
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

            Comment


              #7
              The bolts are from an E39. I put together my own kit for under $50.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by kroberts View Post

                Did IE send me the wrong hardware? This isn't how nuts and bolts are supposed to go together.
                Get them on the phone.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Apologies for blatant rip off from other thread -

                  I then turned my attention to the subframe. As you may know, the rear end is not adjustable for camber or toe as standard. Not an issue on a standard car, but fit lowering springs, and the geometry all goes to pot. This leads to uneven rear tyre wear and reduced grip (the lower you go, the worse it gets).

                  You can get eccentric bushes to adjust some of this out, but they're a pain to setup correctly, and don't offer all that much adjustment. For a while now, you have been able to get (from the US) an adjustment kit that uses eccentric bolts from the back end of the E39 5 series, and some slotted plates that are welded to the subframe. These allow the camber and toe to be adjusted independently of each other, and without removing the trailing arms (as you have to with eccentric bushes). Fitting the slotted plates is a big old job because you have to remove the subframe to do it, but once on the bench, it's not all that hard to fit.

                  This picture shows one of the tabs being aligned prior to the subframe being slotted to match the plate.



                  Once they are slotted, they need to be welded on. I'd like to say that I did the welding, but it would be a big lie. I am however lucky to have a specialist welding company not too far away, so I let them do it



                  After it was all welded, it was sent away (along with the trailing arms and front subframe) to be blasted and powder coated before reassembly.







                  It was then time to bolt it all back together.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    That looks beautiful!!!!
                    '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yeah, I'll give them a call on Monday.

                      On a side note, I guess I dont love my car enough. I cant get excited about powdercoating my suspension bits.

                      It does looking damn good though.

                      Thanks all.
                      Last edited by kroberts; 12-01-2007, 03:09 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by ultegra View Post
                        Apologies for blatant rip off from other thread -

                        I then turned my attention to the subframe. As you may know, the rear end is not adjustable for camber or toe as standard. Not an issue on a standard car, but fit lowering springs, and the geometry all goes to pot. This leads to uneven rear tyre wear and reduced grip (the lower you go, the worse it gets).

                        You can get eccentric bushes to adjust some of this out, but they're a pain to setup correctly, and don't offer all that much adjustment. For a while now, you have been able to get (from the US) an adjustment kit that uses eccentric bolts from the back end of the E39 5 series, and some slotted plates that are welded to the subframe. These allow the camber and toe to be adjusted independently of each other, and without removing the trailing arms (as you have to with eccentric bushes). Fitting the slotted plates is a big old job because you have to remove the subframe to do it, but once on the bench, it's not all that hard to fit.

                        This picture shows one of the tabs being aligned prior to the subframe being slotted to match the plate.



                        Once they are slotted, they need to be welded on. I'd like to say that I did the welding, but it would be a big lie. I am however lucky to have a specialist welding company not too far away, so I let them do it



                        After it was all welded, it was sent away (along with the trailing arms and front subframe) to be blasted and powder coated before reassembly.







                        It was then time to bolt it all back together.

                        Wow, Dimensions on tabs? I need to get that Adjustment back there.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I emailed IE about this and received a response today. It seems they are aware of this situation...


                          "There is no easy cure. Have you tightened them down? The cars vary just a little as everything has a tolerance. The bolts are special and we do not have the choice of getting them slightly longer."


                          I think I may drill them for safety wire and will use plenty of locktite.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I am going to mill the center of the plates a little thinner, I think.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              That would probably help a lot. My plates measure about 0.155" thick and the bolt pitch is fairly fine. If you took 50 or 60 thou off each plate you could easily gain two full turns on the nut and still have plenty of material left to weld.

                              Sorry about my dims, I cant think in metric.

                              Comment

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