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diveablility with solid subframe/diff mounts

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    diveablility with solid subframe/diff mounts

    I have TMS solid rear subframe/diff mount for my e30, the car will be on adjustable konis, vogtland springs, 22 mm front sway/19 mm rear sway, reinforced front subframe, aluminum control arms, new tie rods, and I will probably beef up the rear subframe for the larger sway. I daily drive my car on pretty good roads. I have heard that the solid rear makes everything stronger, but I've also read that the solid rear might rip out. Iv'e read how smooth it is and also how much vibration that there is. I dont care to much about vibration/etc. as long as it is liveable/ and wont shake my car to peices. I'm young (24) and only live one time. Do you think this is the way to go or am I stupid for doing this? I will track the car in the future but it is also my daily. I got the mounts for free. Please only replies from people with first hand knowledge.

    Thanks

    #2
    Please explain: Reinforcing the front subframe and reinforcing the rear subframe. The rear swaybar does not touch the rear subframe (not like a honda). You need to reinforce the rear trailing arm mount for the swaybar.

    As for solid mounts...I would imagine they are not too great for daily driving. What is interesting you have all this hardcore stuff and then you have vogtland springs. Sounds like you will counting on your spring/shock combo to be your only soft point.

    This all being said. I would do it if they were free. :)

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      #3
      do you mean solid as in aluminum or solid as in urethane? I would not use solid aluminum on anything used for the street - even if you are young and single. Urethane bushings are just fine though.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #4
        I got the aluminum bushings for free. I guess I'll sell them and get poly. The front subframe is welded up with the TMS kit, and by reinforcing the rear subframe, just like you said, reinforcing the rear trailing arm mount with a weld in kit........Thanks for the replies.

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          #5
          Use the same hardness of bushings throughout the rear, my car had urethane RTAB, solid diff and rubber subframe bushings installed ~3 years ago and the subframe bushings were in very poor shape, something has to give. That said all rubber bushings should be more then sufficient for your needs.

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            #6
            I regret going full stiff urethane on my subframe. I used the hardest AKG had to offer. Should of gone some stiffer than stck but not much. to harsh. But I aint pulling that subframe off again, nope not in a long long time...
            sigpic
            - 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!!

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              #7
              Thanks, anyone wanna buy some solid ones?

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                #8
                How Much?
                sigpic


                88 325is

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                  #9
                  Red Poly is pretty harsh. I haven't driven solid but imagine its a tad harsher. For anyone interested in using them compeditively check your rules. I know in Street Prep SCCA they are illegal. You cannot have more metal content then a stock bushing, so poly is okay, solid is not. In Street Mod I believe your okay as suspension is unlimited but for keeping attachment points.
                  SM 19 - Serial Destroyer of Cars
                  Turbo '89 325i - It lives! Now the question is for how long?
                  2SlowRcing.com

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                    #10
                    I'd like 150, thats that will include the rear subframe already pressed in, or I can remove them for you.

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                      #11
                      Don't use solid metal subframe bushings unless you have a roll cage tied into that mount. If you do you'll tear the floor out. I asked Bimmerworld about this a while back.
                      sigpic

                      1991 318i Sedan Project

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