I know this is a somewhat common problem, what methods have people used? ive searched, found a few, but the extractor drill bit did nothing ecept round out what little hex was left..
Stripped rotor retainer screw
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Drill off the head of the screw, remove the rotor, and if the screw doesn't twist out by hand, use a pliers to twist it out.Comment
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Now for a different view. Remember the small bolt is only needed to secure the rotor on till you secure it to the hub. Its a convenience! Some times I have had to whack the rotor from behind, and snap the stripped head of the retainer bolt , after all most times when your at this point, you replacing the rotor any way. Don't waste lots of time on a small issue.Dave Norton
BMWCCA member from 1997
1991 325 IC 5 sp 158k brown/bronzit/tan
1990 325 IX 5 sp 165k 2d red/blackComment
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IMPO I'd have to disagree with you on that one. While you CAN get away without the rotor bolt, it's not a good practice. Whether you have the rotors resurfaced at a shop while they are still on the car or if you resurface them off of the car and let them even out "naturally" that bolt is necessary to keep the rotor exactly in the "correct" position in relation to the hub.
And if for no other reason, it's simply the right way to do the job. The engineers put that bolt there for a reason and I doubt that it was for convenience.Comment
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see my brake job thread for a demo of PB Blaster and the beauty of a handheld impact driver. OEM rear setscrews out with no fuss, no muss. also, when you reassemble them, do yourself and a future owner a favour and put a dab of antisieze on the new bolt.Comment





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